Does anyone have a source for drift pins? I have never seen them anywhere. I suppose I may have to find a blacksmith to forge me some, which would involve me describing the exact dimensions that I need them to be. I would prefer to find a source or to have them designed as they were traditionally . Surprisingly, I have never seen any of these floating around. I would think they would be as plentiful as the other antique framing tool(t- augers, chisels,etc..) or were they not used as much traditionally? Perhaps that may have been one too many items to pile into one's tool box, back in the day? tb

I think the reason we don't see them is that they fell out of use upon the advent of the square rule in the first quarter of the 19th century and being a fairly non-descript tool, were reforged or abused into obscurity. (that's just my theory though)

we had ours made out of stainless steel by a machine shop. They turned turned a taper we specified and then welded a t-handle on them.

They are incredibly useful tools, especially during raisings, to temporarily pin a joint securely. I am surprised you don't see more in the states -- pretty much every shop in the UK uses them (but they are scribing).

To answer your question, I don't know of any source of framing pins other than having them custom made. Ours cost around 30 bucks each. I am sure you could get some cheaper ones if you didn't want the T handle and didn't uses stainless. But I wouldn't change a thing about ours.

gabel

wood works... I use oak drift pins that are around 24" long

Dave Shepard, who frequents this forum made some for me. You could ask him to make some for you. His prices were about what Gabel paid, and he has though about several different styles. The ones I got form him had loops at the top end and tapered to a small point.

How are those pins working out Jim? I want to give you a couple more as part of that trade, but I want to be sure they work.

TB, I can make pins, but the problem is the blacksmith shop I use is shut down for the winter, although I can probably get in if I have to. If we get some warm weather, I can also do it at home. I know they will want me there Presidents Day weekend.

The pins I made for Jim were made out of 3/4" round bar stock, with a six-inch taper. They are intended for 13/16" peg holes. Some pins I have seen were made out of 7/8" with a very long taper, they would probably work for 13/16" and 1" pegs. There are a couple of different ways to make the end, I did the loop just for fun, but I have also seen a simple 90 degree turn, and I have seen them folded over 180. It looks like they are a little over a foot long in the picture, longer might be better to reach farther into the joint. The ring is handy as you can stick another pin through it to twist the pin out if it is stuck.




Dave

The pins Dave shows look like they would work great -- the loop on the end is a great idea -- lust stick another pin in and twist to free it.

I'm curious. What do you use the pins for these days? Is it to hold everything together until it is raised, when a wood peg might have a greater likelyhood of snapping? For that matter, I guess I don't know how they were used in earlier times either.

If your peg holes are pre-drilled, they are good on raising day to temporarily pin a connection. A lot of people use tons of comealongs at raisings, but a lot of times we use the pins instead. They are especially great for braces -- stick the brace in the post and slide a pin in and it has more play in it than it would if you pegged it off hard -- it makes it easier to insert the tenons if you've got a little knee action.



They are invaluable if you scribe for pulling and holding the principle timbers of bents, walls, trusses, etc together while you scribe in secondary members.

If they aren't stainless, don't leave them laying on green oak timbers overnight.

gh

I use mine when I do trial fit ups to see how things will go together just before raising day.

I'm going to be making some more pins soon. I'd be interested in what size and style pins people are using. I like the drawn loop on the ones I made in the above picture, but a simple formed loop may be more efficient. Blacksmith shop isn't open at the Village, so I'll have to figure something out at home.