Golden Greetings
This is my first post with a simple shed design using sketchup. The model has marked in the arris and square rule lines. Although I helped at the Kicking Horse bridge project years ago and took a one week course, my layout methods are weak. Have cut 8x8 pine timbers with my woodmizer.
I would like to thanks Carl Bremer for his TF Ruby model, and will be at his conference workshop in Idaho, as a new member of the TFG.
Thanks for your kind assistance.
alpmeadow
download model at
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=883066c3c411a716cc7079ee9dd07103

your model looks fine to me...

Thanks Mark
I was going to use the edge based square rule method, however after reading the sq rule dilemma in the forum, and since my timbers have some wane, twist and size variance, I thought not. I believe the positioning of the arris is usually between the best faces or may have to go to the worst faces if there is any bow or checking in my timbers at the joints..
I am looking to make some simple jigs for saws and routering out joints, before the chisel work happens.. Perhaps Mr Rogers may have some sharp chisels for sale at the Western conference.??
alpmeadow

Here is a pic of the model in question. Hope you don't mind me playing with it, below the model is scaled to the fibonacci series....16 32 48 80 128 etc....



http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c49a5b15d36726f15d64a1d6ad18d521

Here is one of the crossbeams, with possible snaplines added, if that helps. Coloring edges is a pain in the behind..

Hi Mark
Thanks I will try this method. If you want to get rid of the color/textures just hit view, face style, monochrome. Attached is image of my xbeam with red lines as reference. Are there any other tricks to transfer and adjust marked reference lines across other frame members.
Thanks
alpmeadow

Maybe I'm not following you guys, but I'm not sure what the red lines are for. Square rule is designed to deal with timbers that are not exactly the right size. Just measure everything off the reference face, and ignore the opposite side. In this drawing, get rid of the 8" dimension - it doesn't matter. Then show that the back of the brace housings is 7" from the reference face. Just like you did with the tenon height. CB.

Like This:

Sorry, not going to the Western conference.... to far to drive with tools and can't take them on a plane.....

Jim Rogers

CB, I think snaplines can fill in when edges get waney, so it can be faster to layout your timber. Also snaplines are more fun to layout with than edges, IMO.
Alp, the only trick about snaplines is you still need to create a flat face for your sheathing/flooring, so the lines should always be set out in relation to the timber faces. Use a level or plumb line to get the timber ends in line, placing twist and bow where they work best.