I'm about to build the sobon shed as a little cabin. (with some modifications) I want to put drywall on the walls because I love the way drywall makes the timbers stand out. So with the whole concept of wood paneling or whatever put aside here is my problem. I live in a hurricaine zone and I want to put plywood sheathing directly on the frame for added strength. So what are the different cost effective ways I can put drywall on as inside walls. How do you usually join the drywall to the timbers? A quarter round?? Who knows how to make a shear wall?

Carlos

Hurricane Party! I live in one of those regions too. I don't know what the Sobon shed looks like but I am assuming it has rafters. You are going to build a timberframe. The timberframe is what will be strong against the wind. Bracing and possibly windbracing from rafters to ridge. Let the timberframe be strong not the plywood. As far as the drywall, what makes sense to you?

I do realise that the TF is strong enough, however I'm going for overkill with the plywood sheathing. The Sobon shed is the little structure on the top right on the books/publications page. I'm actually modifiying it and using purlins instead of rafters. I'm also raising the posts to 3' above the cross/tiebeams and running the roof out another 4 feet horizontally for a covered deck.

As for the drywall, I though about routing out the posts etc.. so that it would fit inside with the plywood lying flat on the outside. what do people usually do between dry wall and a post. I would think that you need to cover this joint with something as the posts shrink they would pull away from the drywall.

Carlos

why not cover the frame with drywall, then plywood? just use longer fasteners for the ply....

Sobon shed

That little space would weaken the timberframe ply strength!!!

5/8 solid wood(ply wood) furring strips on your posts, inch or so narrower than you posts. centered on your post

sheath the frame in what ever think necessary

dry wall after, sliding your drywall in the gaps created by the furring strips. you can either bend a piece of drywall or cut and tape

no strength lost, no quarter round, clean and quick.

bloveland

thanks for the picture of the shed.

I am only suggesting what little i think i know.

how about making it a bent structure...

king post that connects with the tie and principal rafters (a bent on each gabled end

since you want purlins even better to have windbracing. you could run a brace half lapped across the roof surface from the lower purlin to the center of the ridge on each side. (in essence making a triangle that goes from ridge down the roof surface almost to each plate ( you could actually run them to the plates if you know how to find the compound angles for lay-out)

I don't like the rafter to rafter connection in a hurricane region.

not trying to make it complicated, just strong.

yes this would require big screws.

please let me know if my post doesn't make sense.

Carlos,
To clarify, you are not going to insulate? I would think you'd need to and need A/C down there, no? If you also need the insulation, why not consider SIPS? They nail in the outside of the frame with spikes, they are structurally reinforcing, they will insulate for A/C, and you can screw drywall to the inside of the sips and finish with quarter round trim if you wish. Or you could use the Sips with spacer strips on the posts and tuck the drywall behind the posts.

Thanks for the replies.

Mo

I was planning on a king post on one side but I think I wil do both.... symetery... I was planning on braces on the purlins as well.
"I don't like the rafter to rafter connection in a hurricane region."-----Why not??
and why would this require big screws? I don't follow. The brace would be lapped and mortised...

Bloveland

Thats kinda what I was thinking. That would look clean and I don't like the idea of having trim... kinda tacky on a big beautiful post! Thanks


Brad

Not really planning on insulating. It's not like in Canada or the states where the difference between room temps and out door temps can be very large. Here it's usually in the 20's or 30's (celcius). (room temp being around 22-23°) I am thinking of putting strips, (or something) so there is an air space between the roofing material and the inside ceiling just to keep the heat off a little. Spanish tile (or any tile) would probably do this just the way it is installed! I just don't think it is worth it to add the extra lumber (studs) between the drywall and plywood. Sips would cost a small fortune here (if you could get them) and you would never recover the money... even with the cost of electricity here!! The hardwoods I'm buying here I'm getting at 1.15$ U.S. the board foot. Very cheap. However they don't have an alternative for a 2x4. They sell them by the bdft as well which actually makes them expensive.

Carlos