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Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: Kevin Holtz] #14315 02/15/08 10:29 PM
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I had a double bladed axe once. And at that time, I kept both blades equally sharp. While limbing out a pine tree of dead or green branches, I would swing down and chop and follow through to raise the axe up over the other shoulder and then chop down again using the other head with this swing. As I did this I would take a step and it didn't take long to limb out a trunk.


Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: Mark Davidson] #14316 02/15/08 11:28 PM
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I have found the double bit axe usefull for clean chopping and grubbing. The clean edge is for where there is no risk of rocks or dirt, the other for the wire brush and stuff close to the ground. If the straight handle works on the double bit, why not on the single. I haven't actually tried a straight handle but I am and I will like it! If for no other reason than the ease of making it, so it won't break this time. Unless I find some crazy grain than I may try the traditional looking handle.

Kevin, that is a bad nick. Is the steal extra hard? I am just curious if it passes the file test, will a file cut it or do you need a stone? Tim

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: TIMBEAL] #14324 02/17/08 02:16 AM
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HI Kevin and others:

Kevin as I look at your pictures of the damged edge on the axe, it is my gut feeling that you have put too fine and edge on the axe, and did not leave enough support for the edge. Also the steel might be really brittle and hard on the tool steel inset, and fractured when it came up against a knot or other obstruction. Some knots are quite hard and can easily damage or take out a respectfully sized chunk of the blade edge. one type of wood that is really bad and that one should watch out for is Hemlock especially in a frozen state.

I personally like the edge on my broadaxe to be very sharp naturally, but as you leave the area of the cutting edge you should gain thickness gradually and be back to the full thickness of the tool steel inset at about 1.25".

Now all tool steel insets vary in thickness, The better ones are not real thick, and flow back nicely into the body steel of the axe head, and in many cases you can see the residual marks of the forging hammers as they folded and shaped the red hot steel creating the eye of the axe.

holding the axe loosely in your hands and striking it gently will create a ringing tone, and the sweeter the tone the better the steel and tempering.

I also use a good file to shape the edge if the steel tempering will accept filing, but as a note of caution if you can't file it then you have a really hard tool steel inset and it will be prone to chipping easily, now mind you it will cut great but you will need to use caution when using it around hard knots, especially dry hard wood like oak, or as I mentioned earlier hemlock

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: northern hewer] #14325 02/17/08 02:28 AM
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Hi Mark;

I respect your perogative to disagree about the handle's shape that you feel comfortable with, i am just commenting on my experiences over the years. I started out with my father in the bush when I was about 12 years old, and being in the 40's the handles were boughten and their curves were straighter usually due to the machines that manufactured them.

As I began my historic role in my work life I had to get back to the original lines that had evolved as far as the axe handles themselves were concerned.

It was amazing to me how much nicer they felt and how the control seemed to be more accurate. I always suspected that the curature in the old hand made handles evolved through time mostly for the good. Remember that the old timers used an axe extensively, and was devistated if the handle happened to break accidently

Nice pics and just do your own thing I believe you are all on the right path..NH

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: TIMBEAL] #14326 02/18/08 02:22 AM
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Hi Tim-

It was a pretty nasty dig. I'm not sure if you saw the wire edge that I fished out of the block and positioned next to the axe for the photo-op. That is my "hardest" axe. It was stoutest axe at 14 degrees. I used that axe in competitions in the US and Canada when the wood seemed a bit tough. It held up in some of the gum species in Australia. The damage occured when I was practicing a springboard pocket. You end up coming into the block heavy on the heel and fairly straight in. I was able to rough in a new edge with a file but a guy over there finished it out with a Makita 1" belt sander with a zircon belt. My other axes (pictures on the way) are lower in carbon and tend to bend before they break.

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: northern hewer] #14327 02/18/08 02:34 AM
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Hi NH-

The angle was too thin for sure, even though the it was the stoutest competition axe I own. These competition axes are a lot like a race car. We experiment and test to cut better and better. Eventually you push the envelope too far and "blow a gasket."

Thanks for the tips on the broad axe. I'm going to try to pick up that axe from my friend this week. I'll refer back as I work it back into shape. Looking forward to getting started!

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: Kevin Holtz] #14388 02/23/08 02:17 AM
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To get back to traditional Hewing and using the broadaxe, I think that it is appropriate to discuss somewhat the offset in the handle.

I personally use one that has a 3" offset, an a slight rise to the handle as it exits the head of the axe.

Does anyone have anything to add to this subject, and if so lets hear about your experiences

NH

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: northern hewer] #14403 02/24/08 02:19 AM
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northern hewer Offline OP
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Hello everyone looking in and taking part in this topic, welcome aboard, and join in!

BROADAXE HANDLES

My preference is a rectangular handle that one can nicely close your fingers over, and at the very end I carve in a cove for my little finger to lay nicely in.

The antique handles that I have all had this feature and I must say it really feels niceand comfortable especially if you are using the axe extensively like I used to at UCV

I really hate the feel of a boughten handle, maybe I am too picky, I don't know but wow what a great feeling to pick up one that has been carved out of naturally bowed stock. Making your own is worth every minute of your time many times over.

NH


Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: northern hewer] #14404 02/24/08 02:31 AM
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northern hewer Offline OP
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Hello again, and further to this same topic:

"I put on a glass finish after the shaping and sanding and whatever it takes to get things close to what you feel you need.

If you never have tried to apply one of these finishes it is quite simple, you will be surprised at the unusual feel it imparts to the smooth surface of the handle


NH

Re: historic hewing questionnaire [Re: northern hewer] #14412 02/25/08 01:01 PM
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I am 100% with you on the rectangular handles. I have worked my competition handles into a rectangular shape and I find it helps a ton with control and fatigue. I still have to get those picture up for you guys. Stay tuned!

-Kevin

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