I was wondering how you all think is the best way to have rafters overhang the eaves? It seems you cannot cut away enough to have the top of the rafter be flush with the top plate.

Can you have the height above plate a certain dimension to easily fill in the space when enclosing? If you want or have to use a rafter that sits proud of the plate (higher) what do you all do to fill in the void?

Thanks, Mo

It is possible to have the top of rafter at the same elevation as the outside top corner of the top plate. The building below shows how:

Mark, thanks for the image. That makes sense.
What if you wanted the overhanging rafter to be taller than wide. I guess you could make the rafter bigger and gain back the same way?

What about creating a flare in the overhang where the pitch at the eaves is less than the main pitch. Anybody have ideas for this (When tight enclosure is neccessary)? I remember the sprocket and dont like that too much because they have to sit to the side. What about adding level timbers outside of the structure with bracing? If you wanted it on the Marks image. It seems you could raise the bents add the plate, add outside bracing, attach the connecting pieces with possibly a dovetail at the top plate. It seems you could do this in a principal rafter roof. You know what this babbling gets confusing. Here:




Now I tend to design stuff without looking at certain factors sometime. I.E. stability, raising capability. However I think this is possible. If you all would like too, please take shots at it, compliment, or whatever. I like different opinions. It seems like that enclosing thing is always in the way.

From a design point of view, it seems the overhang is a distinct element of overall style.

mo

looks like a quebecois roof, with the kick out at the bottom. also looks like a bunch of work, fine for your own project.....

Mo, if you could find a client that would go for it why not. Is this a principal rafter, common purlin roof? Also, I have always put the wedge in from the outside, on the wedged half dove tail, I think it has a tendency to ride up with it going the way you have it drawn, from the inside.

With the wedge on the inside like that you can tighten it back up over time and shrinkage pretty easily as long as your wedge isn't too long.

We make the overhangs similar to that shown in MO's drawing. The overhang (four feet is typical) is actually created by tie beams and instead of braces sections of log, of gradually increasing length, are scribed into the courses to create a corbel. An "outrigger" runs parallel to the plate wall.

I was wondering about "out riggers". You must be using a purlin system. I am still under the assumption the wedge goes in from the outside, traditionally. Setting the wedge after the floor goes down will still be tricky. How about using a tie at the plate to generate the over hang. Than you won't have the silly wedge. Seems like a lot less work. Tim

I agree with the idea of running the tie right out. Will be stronger and less work. A couple thing to consider depending on your inclosure system and your location:

1. It will be harder to close the structure with a changing roof pitch

2. depending on how far north you are the part of the roof that is not seated directly on the house (overhang up to where the pitch changes) will be cooler than the rest of the roof. This can cause icing and a leaky roof. The ice forms on the overhang and slowly pushes the shigles up.... you will need to use ice guard.

Where is Charlestowne? I believe you said you were in the huricaine belt... so this won't apply..... but strength of the overhang sure will!!

Carlos

P.S. Does look rather quebecois, however their pitch change is more of a curve...

Actually, for northern climates it is a warmer roof that typically causes the snow to melt and re-freeze creating ice dam problems. Quite often this can be traced to poor insulation details or installation. A cool roof actually helps prevents the snow from thawing, and therefore prevents the ice dams.