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Re: Overhang [Re: studio] #14485 03/05/08 11:48 PM
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CarlosCabanas Offline
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Originally Posted By: studio
Actually, for northern climates it is a warmer roof that typically causes the snow to melt and re-freeze creating ice dam problems. Quite often this can be traced to poor insulation details or installation. A cool roof actually helps prevents the snow from thawing, and therefore prevents the ice dams.


That's exactly what I was saying. The warmer part melts the snow... it runs down on to the cooler part... refreezes and Voila.... ice dam


I cut it twice, and it's still too short!!
Re: Overhang [Re: studio] #14487 03/06/08 01:09 AM
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mo Offline OP
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I have no problem with harder or lots of work if it is worth it in the end. That is the question that I would ask myself. Not if it is too much work or it is hard to figure.

The tie at the plate does make sense. There seems to be some variations to that. Anyone with one in mind, with pencil and paper? I was trying to think of a way with the dropped tie because of the advantage of more livable space above the tie when it is dropped.

Thanks for the responses.

Carlos, Charleston is the lowcountry of South Carolina. Right on the Atlantic. Home of spanish moss, sweet tea, slight drawls, and "How you?"

Re: Overhang [Re: CarlosCabanas] #14489 03/06/08 02:42 AM
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studio Offline
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Sorry, I misunderstood what you were saying but now I get it. However, if the roof is properly insulated/vented(venting depends on if it is a cold roof or warm roof system) there shouldn't be any melting occurring on the upper portion to run down and freeze.


Steve Tracy
Minneapolis Minnesota
www.bigrivertimberworks.com
Re: Overhang [Re: studio] #14492 03/06/08 10:43 AM
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TIMBEAL Offline
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Mo, check out a reversed assembly of the english tying joint. This is where the tie sits on top of the post and the top plate is lapped onto the top of the tie, leaving you with a little more room. It seem like a good compromise. Tim

Re: Overhang [Re: Gabel] #14493 03/06/08 11:44 AM
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Will Truax Offline
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Agreement from here, a Dovetail Tenon should be wedged from the inside (or how would maintenence be effected ?)

Here's a capable crew framing a roof system with a kicked overhang - Lots of work in it - Fancy for fancies sake is silly, but some things are just worth the doing !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFB4t-MAD_Y&NR=1


"We build too many walls and not enough bridges" - Isaac Newton

http://bridgewright.wordpress.com/

Re: Overhang [Re: TIMBEAL] #14494 03/06/08 02:30 PM
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CarlosCabanas Offline
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Originally Posted By: TIMBEAL
Mo, check out a reversed assembly of the english tying joint. This is where the tie sits on top of the post and the top plate is lapped onto the top of the tie, leaving you with a little more room. It seem like a good compromise. Tim


This post definately needs pictures!!! grin


I cut it twice, and it's still too short!!
Re: Overhang [Re: Will Truax] #14496 03/06/08 03:30 PM
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daiku Offline
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Very cool video. I have to figure out how to make those!


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Clark Bremer
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Re: Overhang [Re: mo] #14509 03/07/08 06:33 PM
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Joe Bartok Offline
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Originally Posted By: mo
The tie at the plate does make sense. There seems to be some variations to that. Anyone with one in mind, with pencil and paper? I was trying to think of a way with the dropped tie because of the advantage of more livable space above the tie when it is dropped.

Using the tie beam to create the overhang is illustrated by the ILBA Logo. (Sorry, I lack the ambition to draw a picture ... )

Last edited by Joe Bartok; 03/07/08 06:33 PM.
Re: Overhang [Re: Joe Bartok] #14521 03/08/08 01:23 PM
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TIMBEAL Offline
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Will that u-tube is quit a dance.

On page 7 of Historic American Timber Joinery. The yellow book, is a picture of a variation of a reversed assembly. Paul Oatman also documented some I can't place where I saw them maybe a copy of scantlings I don't know. Tim

Re: Overhang [Re: TIMBEAL] #19560 05/08/09 02:45 PM
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mo Offline OP
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back to the overhang.

Well I was designing an outdoor bar for a friend of mine. It is rectangular in plan and I wanted four hips to converge at a pin. With a bar he would naturally want an overhang.

This can get quite tricky.

Unequal pitches due to the rectangle will lead to some head scratching with an unequal overhang, and then some more headscratching with different common rafters for sufficient Height Above Plate.

The only method I have come up with is: try this, change that, then change that, oh damn, i gotta change that now. You get the picture.

Does anyone have a method that is not so back and forth? Stick framing example would be fine, or for that matter lets just make it lines. There must be a good order of steps.?!

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