I am looking for a powerful drill that will drill 1" peg holes in hardwood without straining the motor. Can anyone recommend a good drill or know where I can start searching? Also, I'm having trouble finding a 13/16" wood bit that is around 10" long. Does anyone know where I can find one? Any insight you can provide is greatly appreciated...

Any 1/2" drill that turns 500 rpm or less should be up to the task. Make sure you have an auxiliary handle to keep from breaking a wrist.

As for a 13/16 bit, try this one. http://www.acetoolonline.com/product-p/irw-45613.htm

Not to contradict what Gabel said, but do be careful that you're getting a higher level drill motor. My dad was given a 1/2" Makita and it's completely gutless. Some manufacturers ride on their good name and produce similar looking cheaper tools that just don't perform.

That's funny, Zach. We have a Makita that is still going strong after 8 or 9 years of drilling peg holes. Milwaukee's big drills are typically pretty well made.

One of my students was using a 1/2" makita today to drill out a 2" mortise. The magic smoked leaked out and it stopped turning :-( It was probably the smallest 1/2" makita makes, and was obviously not up to the task. I'm sure they make a big one that is. I generally like Makita tools, but for a big 1/2" drill, I'll pick Milwaukee every time.

And regarding the side handle and the broken wrist: What Gabel Said! (DAMHIKT)

CB.

Just took a look over my past post and realized I may not have explained myself well enough.

Most manufacturers make a variety of similar models of a single tool, from the home hobby line (cheap) to professional (higher price).

It can be confusing knowing which model is the higher end. If you can get a hold of the company catalog or look at the website it's usually pretty easy to decipher. A quick way to get a feel is to compare rated amps, but that isn't always conclusive.
Best to compare all the similar models on a single page.

Zach

What about the bits? Irwin? any one been using the ones with the three cutters? I think there was talk about this elsewhere. Tim

Irwin. I don't like the wood owls (3 cutters) -- they don't cut as well and aren't as durable as the Irwin model I linked to above. Those are getting hard to find though.

Daiku, which Milwaukee model do you use? amperage that you find powerful enough, 8 amp? tb

1107 D-Handle. And I repeat: NEVER use a D-Handle drill without the side handle extension bar. CB.

Hey Daiku, ditto w details:
Being able to resist the drill's torque while staying safely balanced and using your weight to push and guide the bit into the wood requires good equipment, a VERY safe set-up, and concentration. Safety first, be careful.
I have the 2 speed, Fwd & Rev Milwaukee Hole Hawg and I love it, use it often in many applications. I've never had it lack the torque necessary for any bit into any material. It's well balanced and will get into some pretty tight spaces, e.g. between 16" oc studs with a 6" long auger bit in the chuck. It comes with a 3/4" x 12" pipe handle w rubber grip that screws in quickly to either side, plus it has a "spade" handle over the head of the motor that will swivel and lock into convenient detents. ALWAYS put on the pipe handle and USE it, weight on both feet, cord lead directly back from the work, eye protection as necessary, sharp & straight bit etc. If the object you're drilling isn't fixed or sufficiently heavy, then clamp it securely. Better to have pipe handle stopped by some immoveable structural object, save your strength for something else. That being said, I use mine (for 27+ yrs) with 2 hands most of the time, have used it while on ladders and scaffolding too. Not a tool for a lightweight, inexperienced operator.
Milwaukee makes a 3/8" rt angle 120v drill for c $190. I've considered it, but haven't needed it soo bad.... no opinion based on experience.
I also have a Milwaukee 1/2" D-handle drill Fwd & Rev, with a "Right Angle Kit" that you slide and clamp onto the drive end after removing the chuck. It has a short (c. 5") second handle for around the bit end. This set-up is call the "plumber's kit". It is very good for getting into tight places with augers and holesaws and the "plumber's bit kit" (self-feed bits & augers). The short handle is not as reliable a holder against unwanted drill and wrist (not bit) rotation as the 12" pipe. Same precautions for this one. I've had this one for 30+ yrs, now use it when I need a 2nd HD 1/2" drill on the job. These Milwaukee tools, made in Brookfield WI, are heavy duty, well balanced, very tough, comfortable to use, w parts still available. They are cool running and are for professionals, and are excellent long term investments. Yes, they have cords, but after putting down a cordless, I am soothed and pleased to feel the power and speed, smoothness and accuracy of all my Milwaukee tools. I have from Milwaukee: 3/8" pistol hammerdrill, 1/2" pistol hammerdrill, 2 Sawzalls (40+ yrs & 15 yrs), 2 screw-shooters, bench grinder, 1/2" HD Rotary Hammer for heavy drilling into masonry and for light demo work, and a 20+yr old cordless driver for very light, tight work.
I tried a combo pac of cordless Milw tools 1.5 yrs ago and returned them - poor quality, low power, etc, most made in China. Bad investment for many reasons. My made in USA Milwaukee tools will still be going strong after a few generations of "offshore" tools have been sent to landfills.
Maybe too much info...? But you get my opinion, based on experience. I also own and highly appreciate my tools from Mafell, Porter-Cable, Skil, Makita, select DeWalt cordless tools, my Delta Unisaw, plus heavy cast-iron machinery which I bought used - 20" Davis & Wells bandsaw (1940s Los Angeles), and 12" Fay & Egan joiner (1930s Cincinnati).
N.B. I did get my 40 y.o. sawzall for $35 used, from a friend who needed money ( his mom later told me it might have been "a little warm..." Since we were both Boy Scouts together, this was an eye opener for me!) Used tools, selected carefully, can be a good choice. And I love my 1959 Ford 671 farm tractor w Select-o-Speed transmission, an American classic!
Steve

Just came across this..

I concour that Milwakee's Hole Hawg is the best choice. I know a few electricians who swear by it. They drill through stuff all day and need reliability. Ask an electrician or plumber...these trades drill through stuff more than us wood guys do...

Don

Don, yes and WATCH and GUIDE those subs to protect our beautiful, intact Timbers! Show them and insist they go around instead of drilling through timberframes. Young, strong, gung-ho apprentices are often given drilling duties - you know the same ones who don't know about leverege, balance, pacing themselves, nor their own strength - often break tool handles or bury their vehicle to its axles in mud!
I found it best to work w the same subs, who could learn some new SOPs re TFs.
Steve