brad you are correct, the adaptor doesn't need to be welded, I welded mine because it was rejected by the mechanics shop where they couldn't swap it around for those needs you mentioned. I dedicated it to timber framing. The 100 year old nail pullers work well, with very little damage to the wood surface, they do need a head to bite onto, so they might not work well on 100 year old broken nail stubs, but its worth a try. Tim

I called Home Depot last night to make sure they had Timberlok screws before I drove 35 minutes to get there. The girl on the phone assured me they had them and I spelled the name and told here it was the brand name and described them and asked if she was sure that they did. She said yes, they had them in the concrete section of lumber. I drive there and cannot find them, no associate has any idea of what I'm talking about. They can't find any such thing on their computer. I've already searched concrete, lumber and hardware, but of course each associate hears screw and tells me 'you've got to look in hardware'. I go back and forth between lumber and hardware and talk with 3 associates to no avail. Of course no one admits to taking my call 50 minutes earlier. Depot never seems to have simple things I am looking for let alone something like this. So Home Depot has once again wasted my time unnecessarily. An hour and a half of my life taken by Home Depot. I've said it before, but now I really mean it. I WILL NEVER ENTER A HOME DEPOT AGAIN AS LONG AS I LIVE!!!

Thank you to this forum for allowing me to vent today.

McFeeleys has them. And try their square drive screws. You'll never buy a phillips head screw again as long as you live (eh?).

Robertson heads. A Canadian thing, eh?
:lol:

I did get some of the screws from McFeely's. Shortly after I noticed that my local Menards carried them
Last weekend I tried using the timberlok screws with both an axle puller and a crow bar. by far the crowbar worked best. The down side was that I had to keep shimming under the bar with white oak blocks to keep my pry angle at it's maximum advantage. Just yesterday I sketch up a puller tool that I could use with a cordless impact wrench and it would grab the head of the timberlock screw. I don't really have time to build it right now though.