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 Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: brad_bb]
#14861
04/01/08 08:36 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Dave Shepard
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718 |
I agree Carlos, the spiders can really rack up the views counts.
The WoodButcher, there are many possible reasons why you did not get an immediate welcome, not worth going into at this point, but don't blame everyone here. This is a great group of people who are very happy sharing any knowledge they have with anybody.
I agree that making timber frame kits for the DIYers is a good idea, something I have been working on for a while now. Why don't you stop back and try again?
Dave
Member, Timber Framers Guild
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#14875
04/01/08 09:15 PM
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 209
Will B
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 209 |
For a first book, I suggest Jack Sobon's "Build a Classic Timber Frame House" for someone that wants to learn to layout and cut joinery. Tedd Benson's "The Timber Frame Home" for someone more interested in design and systems issues. And of course, the DVD with all the back issues of Timber Framing magazine for everyone! Welcome, Woodbutcher (if you're back).
Last edited by Will B; 04/01/08 09:16 PM.
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 Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: The WoodButcher]
#14878
04/01/08 10:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 12
The WoodButcher
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 12 |
Hello to All of you. Sorry for being so impatient in my earlier post. (really) Please Forgive me. I am starting my timberframing of with the sign for my sawmill business. I have never done this kind of work before, but have always been fascinated with TF. My sign post is 8"X8"X12' I am going to use the mill to cut what tenons I can. Mortise's on the other hand, are fun for awhile, but it's a short while lol, I really enjoy it. Can someone tell me how long my tenons should be? I have my first one cut at 2"T X 6"H X 4"L I think it should be longer. Am I right? Was thinking about going all the way thru? BTW It's gonna be a cantalevered sign post with the actual sign hanging from it. Which will be a 3"T X 24W" X 4'L slab of red oak. 
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: The WoodButcher]
#14880
04/02/08 12:11 AM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 56
CarlosCabanas
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 56 |
not quite sure of what your plan is for the sign, but if you have a horizontal piece... I wouldn't put the mortises right through as you are just giving water access to more end grain.
Carlos
I cut it twice, and it's still too short!!
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: CarlosCabanas]
#14881
04/02/08 01:43 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 103
DKR
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Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 103 |
I'm confused about the design to. Is your sign kinda sorta going to look like a real estate sign. An upside down L with a sign hanging from it?
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: DKR]
#14883
04/02/08 09:13 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882 |
That's what it sounds like to me. I would use rot resistant wood. With a Dutch theme, use a 24" through tenon with a wedge on the out side, and a peg or two. A big tenon like that should be simple on your mill. Stick in a naturaly curved brace for some support of that slab of Oak. The books Will mentioned will be of great help in understanding. Is that Yellow pine? Tim
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#14884
04/02/08 09:20 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 12
The WoodButcher
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 12 |
Hi All, Yes you are all right about the sign looking like a giant real estate sign. Also that is SYP.
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: The WoodButcher]
#14886
04/02/08 10:03 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882 |
How well does SYP hold up to the weather? Does SYP have much of a sap ring? If it does, cut all of the sapwood off your stock. Tim
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#14889
04/02/08 03:28 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 103
DKR
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 103 |
Are there going to be two posts, with a beam between them from which the sign will hang? Or is there only going to be one post with a beam from which the sign hangs? I had tought the latter, but if that's it, then I don't understand why you've cut two mortices.
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Re: Hello, New Member here
[Re: DKR]
#14890
04/02/08 04:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 603
brad_bb
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 603 |
It's like a hammer beam. Lower mortise is for the brace, upper mortice is for the hammer beam. The sign hangs off the end of the hammer beam. The hammer beam has a tenon that goes in the post, and a mortice for the other end of the brace.
Not sure what is meant my using a mill to cut tennons? I would use a circ saw to score cut the shoulders and knock the chunk out with a chisel, then par the tenon and shoulder.
Last edited by brad_bb; 04/02/08 04:52 PM.
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