Hi all! And thanks for welcoming me. Especially Golden Elvis.
My tool question is this. What do I need to do barn repair?

I'll provide my current list. I am a licenced journeyman carpenter, and have a full array of renovation tools, compressors, nail guns, cordless and corded drills. My timberframe tools are limited to a chainsaw, several handsaws, an new 8 1/4 circ., and a nice 1 1/2 and 2" chisel.

What I am looking to do is re-tool for barn repair/ timberframe raisings. I figure I need 2 comealongs, 4 decent size straps, and am wondering about the block and tackle, since I have not much experience with such.
Anyone have any ideas on "must haves" for my kit?

Thanks!
dave

Any advice is welcome. How about telling me what your most used 2 tools are?
Thanks!

Blocking and jacks, screw and hydraulic. Water level to set a bench mark. Bobcat? Tim

Check on the water level. And understand. Have a little pickup (sonoma 4 cyl) with the back end beefed up to carry loads. I've impressed many a cynic by the loads I can carry with that little truck. Have a bunch of old jacks,, but they are tired from their previous employ as wine and beer filter jacks. Interested in the concept of air jacks,,hmmmm,
looking seriously at comealongs,,, the good ones aren't cheap,

keep posting,,,,

Keep posting in the Tools forum where this topic belongs.

The thought of air jacks makes me nervous. I like screw jacks because of the infinite adjustability and the fact that they don't usually fail suddenly and without warning. I've had hydraulic jacks act up on me too many times to want lift more than a few hundred pounds with them.

I would say that the kit will be driven largely by the work to do. Are you replacing a post? a sill? repairing a tie beam? replacing siding/roofing? repairing a foundation?

But likely you will need a whole lot of cribbing, a whole lot of jacks, a way to lift timbers inside a barn (block and tackle, winch, comealongs, etc) and the usual repair/restoration toolkit.

Most important is a thorough understanding of how these buildings were built in the first place -- how the building is laid out, how the joinery works, etc.

Also, you need to be able to interpret the load paths in order to safely and correctly do the work. Otherwise simple load paths can be muddled and confused and hard to predict when you have by failing or missing structural members.

that's just a few thoughts.

GH

Ken,

My mistake. Learning my way around the site. You or ? have my permission to move this thread to it's proper location!

dave

I would second plenty of blocking as a needed "tool." I've visited some barns under construction (repair) and have been amazed by the amount of "cribbing" that's required.

They all seem to use 8x8s that are about 3' long. It's like one of those things you can't seem to have enough of.

And what about plenty of large capacity clamps?

Some years ago, I was given a list of timber framing tools that a framer should have or bring to a guild project.
I'm quite sure I got this list from Will Beemer of the guild.
I did however re-arrange the list into tool categories. Some of these tools are standard carpenter type tools and some are specialty tools.
I'm not saying that every one should have every tool on this list, but this is the list, we were provided with back then.

Tools for Timber Framing
Layout tools
Calculator (construction type and or scientific)
Chalk line or ink line
Combination square
Framing square
Lumber crayons or chalk
Misc. layout tools: dividers, compass, trammel points, Big Al, Protractor square,
Parallel line layout ruler, etc
Pencils carpenter and regular
Plumb bob
Stair gauges
Tape measure (16 ft, 25 ft., or 30 ft)
Utility knife

Hand tools
Awl
Block plane (sharp)
Boring machine & bits
Brace & bit (3/4" & 1" auger, and/or set)
Carving tools
Clamps (24" bar or Quik-Grip type)
Corner chisel
Crosscut & rip handsaws
Hammer (16-22 oz. smooth face)
Hand planes (rabbet, smoothing)
Levels (torpedo, 28 in. and/or 48 in.)
Outside dimension calipers
Inside dimension calipers
Sharpening files & Sharpening stone
Slick
Timber framing chisel (sharp, 1.5 in. and/or 2 in.)
Tool bag or box.
Various size smaller chisels
Wooden or leather head mallet (2-3 lb.)

Power tools
Chain or chisel mortiser
Circular saws (7 1/4 ", 8 1/2", or 16")
Electric hand plane (4", 6" or 12")
Extension cord (#12, 25' minimum)
1/2" electric drill & bits (1" - 1.5" auger and/or set)

Personal Safety Equipment
Ear plugs
Hard hat
Jobsite drinking bottle
Nail apron
Safety glasses & Sunglasses
Work gloves

Misc: Sawhorses

clamps check!
blocking,,,, maybe I'll rent????hmmmmmm good thought!

Thanks! Good list. I'm well on my way to having that list. Was looking at shoulder planes today,, but have already spent more that I should have this month. On my list!

Thanks for taking the time to post! Good one!

Everything in the normal kit and more...

A full working knowledge of timber framing and a better than decent grasp of their engineering.

Plus, as been said, crib block, crib block and more crib block, hundreds of pieces. This is best 6 X 7 X spot on 4 (helps you throw up plumb towers quickly) 6 X 7 for a number of reasons, you can easily insert pieces to stand on or jack from, or adjust height by turning up or down, and when in storage you can stack it so the lifts are not dead packed.

Shim stock by the hundreds of pieces ½” 1 and 2 by, both full and nominal 3 and 4 by, all cut to 6 X 14 ( wide as a block and long enough to tie two pieces together )
Bundle upon bundle of shim shingles –

Timber needles to tie your towers together – 6 X 7 X 12 and 16 –

Jacks – High Lifts, screw and hydraulic ( posted on the importance of plague like avoidance of cheap ones in the past )

Some red iron –

A Grip Hoist or two –

The list goes on…

Cheers Will!
Thanks for the imput. Red iron will be on my engine block.
(I'm assuming this was a joke! If not educate me!)

I'm working on the theories involved, by helping with as much timberframing as possible. I am a journeyman carp,, so hope you all don't think this is a totally lost cause!
Blocking seems to be a theme.
Thanks to all,, keep em coming! my list is getting bigger and bigger!
dave

Dave, check yer local Canadian Tire.. they have the good comealongs on sale..1/2 price

Oh great! I love canadian tire. Their tools are often pretty crap, but big clamps on sale are cheap! I'll get some comealongs
this week!

No yolks...

Common slang for I-beams.

did anybody say
bevel Guages

Thanks for all the imput. Just giving myself a "bump"
Need straps and come-a-longs. Blocking a second.
As mentioned before,, I'm pretty much set up as a reno-carpenter, so just looking for the butter on the toast.

HI everyone:

I was just looking at this list of tools required for a guild function, all I can say is this--JUST TRY AND GET THEM ACROSS THE BORDER-- you will land in jail for sure!!!

One time a few years ago I was sent by the Ont. Govt. to demonstrate at a fair in Northern New York State. I had only a few necessary tool needed for a hewing demonstration--well I was stopped cold at the border, I had a signed letter by my superior which didn't seem to help then I tried some phone calls to help but in the end I told them at the border that I really didn't care but there would be alot of unhappy people who had planned the event. In the end they grudgingly allowed me to continue on after they had called again, and that was before 9\11 and the terrorist thing.

NH

Richard, what was the worst offender? Tim

Hi Tim

I must be getting old, please explain your question so I can answer it correctly

NH

I was curious as too which tool the Boarder Patrol did not like. Why did they give you a hard time crossing the boarder with basic tools? It was something they don't see every day. Were they out in the open or were they searching and found them? Just curious and was passing the time. Tim

My tools consisted of a hewing axe, scoring axe, lines ,dogs a cant hook, hammer and various other small tools. I believe that the fuss was mainly over the fact that they were all historic tools, other than that I really don't know.

NH

Hi Tim & Richard,

I too have experienced this but on the other side of the continent at the crossing from BC to Washington (Blane).

The concern I think related more to concerns about a person arriving with a bag of tools implying that you might be crossing to work illegally in the USA rather than security concerns.

Regards

Ken Hume

That makes sense. Imagine trying to get onto a plane with a carry on bag of such tools. I still get a kick of the thought of someone coming across the boarder with such hand tools to make a killing illegally hewing logs. They must have bigger fish to fry. Tim

On the US southern border they don't bring any tools and don't have any problem getting across to work illegally!
That was funny, "make a killing illegally hewing logs"!
I don't think you'd have any problem bringing the tools on a plane so long as they are checked bags and not carry on. On the other hand, who's to say that your tools or bag won't mysteriously "get lost"? Better photograph and have proof of value on your tools if you have to take them by plane.

When I traveled with my tools by plane, I wrapped the tools tips up with duct tape so that they couldn't be opened easily. Then I printed a list of what was in the tool bag and left it on top of the tools so that if the opened the bag the list was right on top. And on the bottom of the list I stated that I had a copy of the list with me so that I'd know if anything was missing....
And it appeared that they never opened the bag either going or coming back....

Here is a tool not seen on the list, Peg Loppers. Tim
[img]http://[IMG]http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/timber500/100_1901.jpg[/img][/img]

I wouldn't think it would produce a consistent clean cut. I'd reach for the japanese saw.

Been thinking about this one. My first response was, neat bypass loppers,, why not anvil? (my fave)
Either way,, The more I think about it ,, the more intriqued I am.
Why not?

The trick would be to do a cut 1/4" proud, and a second at the mark. Would be pretty quick,, esp at heights,,

I do LOVE my jap saws,, and have MANY that I use all the time,,

hmmm

I don't have the anvil type, now I need to try the anvil type to see the result.

Brad, the first time I tried the loppers was a few years ago in a horse stall. A horse expert was viewing the stall and commented on the pegs sticking out and the fact that at times a horse may move around more than we think, impaling himself. I went around the corner and came back with the loppers. In a mater of moments all the offending pegs were trimmed back. Sawing pegs off can be a tedious process at times and the loppers just make it slick. The ones in the picture were up side down and they are way up in the peak, basically out of sight. In this case form follows function, an excuse I use frequently for justification.

Historically as a side note, most older barns I view have short pegs and they were not trimmed at all. When they made the pegs the stock was an inch or two longer than the timber. My pegs happen to be 4-5 inches longer for some applications, this is what I am trimming back. It just happens to be my form/function.

As a second note, the trusses in the picture are being transported fully assembled and I needed the pegs to be short for packaging. Tim