Thanks for the info Brad. I have slowly acquired most of the things on your list - still need a 2" framing chisel and a foxmaple mallet (I am presently using a rough mallet I made with a froe and drawknife from a piece of ash - it works but I wouldn't want to use it all day). I bought a 1.5" Sorby mortising chisel and after some effort at sharpening (sandpaper on plate glass) I was able to get a mirror finish and what a difference!

For this project I'm making templates for the mortises and using a 1/2" router with a 1/2" by 2 1/4" long double fluted bit. That first 2" cut seems to provide a nice guide for chiseling out the remainder. I also have an auger bit for any mortises that don't justify making a template. Making that first cut into a timber that I cut, milled and carried to the workshop is quite intimidating.

I'm really having fun with this type of work! Leaving the workshop for food or bed is a challenge.

Thanks for that info. I'm happy to hear that you like the Barr. I have a 1.5" Sorby - it will be interesting to see the difference. I agree that you get what you pay for, and still periodically learn the hard way...

One of the key things to look for when buying old used items is pitting. There are many with little or no pitting at all and it becomes obvious from the photos. DOnt buy if you dont get a nice closeup of both sides.

Learning to sharpen is something you will need to spend time on and when you get up in the AM and shave with your chisel before you head out to the shopm you know it is ready for work!

If you can get yourself a Swan, White or Whiterby you will be happy and should easily be able to get each needed size under $50.

I've re-furbed many old chisels and planes,, and think that there is much much time saved in having a new flat on the back chisel(s). If money is an issue,, then refurb is a great option, provided you have a meathod of flattening the back.
Look out for big pitting (large rust pockets)
I'm running a 1 1/2 barr framing, a 2" Bevel edge sorby and my veritas block plane daily. They are easy to sharpen,, hold edge, and a pleasure to use. The wages lost on them are long forgotten,, since they will be my employ for years to come!
Have yet to get my hands on a lee-neilson,, but might spring for a shoulder plane some day,,,,,,
my 2 cents.
dave

I've found that getting the back flat is the most arduous task in the initial sharpening of any tool. Fortunately I have a retired machinest that is pretty darn handy with a surface grinder. He sharpens tools for local framers, usually for about $4 apiece.


Just after this thread started, I bought a Lie-Nielsen 60 1/2 low angle block plane. It was pricey, but WOW! What a great tool. I didn't get the rabbet version, as I wanted the adjustable mouth, and it's primarily for woodworking tasks, not framing. Has anyone used thet 60 1/2 rabbet? I was wondering if that would come in handy for cleaning up tenons and housings. Thanks.


Dave

I'd fill my truck with stuff to be flattened for $4 a piece.
Tends to take me hours and hours and well,, you get the point.
I suppose if I spent money on a tool to flatten,,,but why not put that money into new chisels, and a piece of float glass?

I just got home with a new flattening tool, a granite lapping platet and silicon carbide grit. I don't know if it'll flatten chisels, but I got it for lapping the soles and cheeks of hand planes. I'll report back later.


Dave

Dave,
I have the LN Scrub, Low angle block & the 10 1/2 Rabbet. The Smoothing plane is next on the list. I used the rabbet plane on every tennon for my addition. If the grain would wander to close to the line when splitting out the waste I would use the Scrub plane to quickly rough it out then a smoothing plane or slick then the Rabbet plane.

All of the LN planes are a pure joy to use! They are not cheep but well worth the money if you are going use them a lot.

Does any body else out there use a Scrub plane? I love this tool!

Surely the LN's are comparable to Veritas?
I'm happy the the veritas,, but often wonder about those other ones. Thanks for the imput.

$4 a piece. I'd be in for that if he did it right. The hardest part by far is getting an old chisel in shape to work for the first time. Once it's dialed in the first time though, future honing is easy. Make sure to protect your tools from rust. I've been rubbing my chisels with gun oil lately. I wonder if it's just mineral oil?