I am building a house for the first time and I will be buying Hemlock from a local Amish mill to side my house (board and batten style). This is my first project so I have alot of questions. Does the drywall have to be installed before siding being that the siding is vertical and not horizontal? I am hoping to install the siding while it is green and let it dry on the house. How long should this take? Should I break down and have the wood kiln dried before installation? Thanx for your help! Heidi

Heidi,
You didn't tell us about the wall construction.
Is it a timberframe or conventional stick built house ? How do you plan to insulate the walls ?
A good guideline for your latitude is R30 walls and an R50 roof so your inside environment is independent of the weather or the season.
More suggestions when you answer the questions.
Deralte (aka Emmett)

Hi Emmett,
It is a stick built house, constructed using 2X6. We intend on using timbers but at this point they will purely be cosmetic (we couldn't afford for them to be structural). The back of the house is south facing, receives full sun all day and is loaded with windows for a view of a local ski hill (typical cathedral ceiling, open concept chalet style home, with a loft). We are having the windows tinted to help out with solar gain. We are considering creating venting by running a "tunnel" in the top of the cathedral ceiling (not sure if it is necessary). Being that we are in ski country we were thinking of insulating the walls to R40 and the ceilings R50 or higher. We get tonnes of snow! I look forward to your suggestions. Have a great day! Heidi

You can use green lumber for board & batten siding. The secret to a long lasting weather-tight job with minimal checking or splitting is in how the siding is nailed. For boards 8" and under use one galvanized (or stainless) nail in the center of the board to attach to the horizontal strapping which should be installed at a maximum 2' O.C. The single nail permits the wood to shrink from the outside edges towards the middle. Leave a 1/4" gap between the boards. The battens are installed the same way with one nail passing through the gap between boards. Avoid the temptation to drive two nails in the battens, they will split on drying. For boards wider than 8" divide the board into thirds and drive nails at these points, not as effective but the next best thing. Siding installed this way and with air flow on the back side will last for many years with almost no checks or splits. You may have to go back in a year or so to drive home nails that are not flush after the wood has dried out but this should only have to be done once. Hope this helps.

Heidi,
Ray's suggestions on the siding are right on. Follow his cautions carefully.
2 x 6 studding lends itself to blown in cellulose insulation which lasts a very long time and makes for an air tight house if applied properly. Don't forget to use low expansion foam around all the window/door jams before you apply the dry wall. Your insulation contractor can give you the R numbers for 2x6 studding. It varies by density of the applied product.
Big caution. Use a closed cell foam air damn underneath the sill plate, the black stuff, NOT the cheap blue stuff.
Next question ?
deralte