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Sharpening Chisels #15874 06/13/08 01:03 AM
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Treeax Offline OP
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HI
Does anyone know of a jig, that holds your chisel at any angle as you sharpen it?

Thanks

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: Treeax] #15875 06/13/08 02:06 AM
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Ray Gibbs Offline
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There are lots of jigs out there. Lee Valley has a substantial selection of sharpening items; stones (oil,water and diamond) lapping plates, the jigs you're talking about and a complete motorized system that I use that works great.

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: Ray Gibbs] #15876 06/13/08 10:48 AM
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TIMBEAL Offline
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Lee Valley is a very dreamy place. I like the stuff they have. A 1800 rpm grinder and a buffing wheel, any one use a buffing wheel for chisels? Does it round the edge over too much? Tim

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: TIMBEAL] #15879 06/13/08 02:07 PM
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Jim Rogers Online Confused
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I've got a sharpening guide and like it very much.....
I got mine at my local Woodcraft store.
Here is a link to the type I use:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=224


Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: Jim Rogers] #15882 06/13/08 02:39 PM
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As a newbit to woodworking a year and a half ago, I saw the jigs and thought the angle was critical, but what I've learned is this:
You don't need a fancy jig to sharpen a chisel properly
You don't need a powered machine to sharpen a chisel or edge tools
You don't need an exact angle, you need roughly 25 to 30 degrees, some say closer to 30 for hardwood will keep it sharp a little longer and closer to 25 is slightly better for softwood, though either will work fine with either. Even 24, 23, or 22 degrees will work.
You need only set your angle one time when you prepare a tool the first time(like an antique) with a wood block at the desired angle sitting on the tool rest of a belt sander to rough out the angle and rough out the flat side.
Rule one is to flatten the backside of the tool.
I use the cheapest method around now, sandpaper sharpening on glass. I bought a 3foot piece of 1/2 inch or 3/8 min glass at a glass shop for $16 with the edges beveled and smoothed. I made a frame for it from scrap MDF. it lays on the benchtop. Then bought Pressure sensative adhesive (PSA) sandpaper in 80, 150, 220 grits and lay 12 inches of each on the glass. Then flatten the back side moving from coarse to finer paper, removing all previous coarser grit scratchs and cleaning in between grits so that you don't transfer any coarse grit to finer. Keep the paper swept clean with a brush. This process is all done dry by the way and you can never over heat a tool like with a machine because you can never get it hotter than you can hold. After the three grits, cut some 600, 800, and 1000 grig wet dry paper like you get at the autobody supply store (or pepboys, I prefer 3M or Norton paper). You don't need adhisive for this paper, just cut it to the right size and lay it on the previous paper on the glass (lay the 600 over the 80 grit, 800 on the 150 etc. and the grit of the underlying paper will hold the wet/dry paper in place. work down to 1000. Now your getting pretty sharp. You can try to polish finer if desired. You can play with wet stones but don't necessarily need them. Once you've done this process on your chisels and get them in shape, you don't need to do this much work every time -to resharpen just a quick run through with the finer grits. I learned from a 30 minute DVD Called Sandpaper sharpeing, it's the second item on this page:
http://www.thewindsorinstitute.com/bvd.html

Here's a video I just found online.
http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/165/videos/sandpaper-sharpening/
In this online video they spray water on the wet dry paper and use an angle guide. They also talk about using 1/4 inch plate glass. I recommend 3/8 min. You don't need either. I posted this online video link just to show that just sandpaper will do the job well. The Sandpaper sharpeing video by Mike Dunbar shows how to hold and rotate the chisel to the bevel angle and sharpen 90 degrees to the axis of the chisel. This sandpaper method is nearly as fast as a machine, but has far more control and is more forgiving. Chipped edges are no problem for the sandpaper method. The Sandaper sharpeing video by Mike Dunbar also shows how to sharpen edge tools with curved edges.

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: brad_bb] #15883 06/13/08 02:44 PM
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Oh, a micro bevel can be added if desired. And I usually set my finer wet/dry on the 150 or 220, not really the 80 as I stated above.

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: brad_bb] #15884 06/13/08 03:53 PM
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frwinks Offline
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Treeax, glad to see another soul on here inspired by Mark's workshop cool
The clip posted by brad_bb is great, and you can pick up a jig at your local homedepot (that's where I got mine, think it was $12-$15).
Where in ON are you?


there's a thin line between hobby and mental illness
Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: frwinks] #15885 06/13/08 06:20 PM
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Treeax Offline OP
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I live in oshawa, ontario, but I'm building my cabin in maynooth.
I just bought some red pine (6x6). They didn't have any white pine, but I think I should be alright with the red.
thank for the help!

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: Treeax] #15897 06/15/08 03:35 AM
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Bring back the strap!
A little bit o' leather goes a long way when a stone is not readily available.....

Re: Sharpening Chisels [Re: Timber Goddess] #16943 09/27/08 09:33 AM
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Would a honing guide be necessary for this or can you just eyeball it?

Is this a good honing guide?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2417

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