Hi Maurice,

I gather that your question was directed at me, so I'll give you the link to my blog:

the carpentryway

I haven't written much of late on the topic of natural building, as I'm absorbed in three other things presently, but you may find something of interest to your project if you look through older postings, like the "Mud and Sticks" series. If you have any questions which you feel I might be able to possibly assist you with, my e-mail contact can be found on my blog profile.

All the best,

Chris


Thanks!

Hi Tim,

I'm interested in hearing more about your experiences with clay, straw and other natural nearby materials as they apply to timber framing. I'm presently in the early stages of building a timber frame straw bale wrap around home along with a built up roof. We are considering using a natural clay earthen plaster and a masonary heater as well.

Hi Rob, I'm very interested in the direction you are taking. SIPs are very convenient as they apply to the contractor wanting to enclose the building asap and make it air tight. I'm presently in the early stages of building a timber frame strawbale wrap around with a buildt up roof and a masonary heater. We are considering applying an earthen clay plaster on the inside and outside walls.

I'm interested in the fabrication of your panels. You describe the technique as to densely pack the cellulose to 4.2 lbs per sq/ft. What I do not understand in this application is how the cellulose will perform when compacted so densely. My understanding is that cellulose requires air similar to fiberglass to be a good insulator. Am I wrong here, I must admit, I have no direct working experience with cellulose other than blowing it into the attic spaces of strawbale homes.

I'm very interested in the work your doing and would like to keep in touch.

Maurice

High density cellulose is sprayed in lightly wetted, in a mist. Part of its better insulating value is air does not pass through it easily. There are still air chamber in it.

I am waiting for spring to continue my clay work. I am going to be focusing on wood chips and light clay. Maybe some work with swale grass, for it grows locally, this won't be in bale form but mixed with a clay slip and various ways of infilling. One of interest is wrapping the grass on sticks which are wedged into a bay this is then covered with a clay plaster or render.

Tim

Why not simply use "I" beams manufactured to whatever dimension you want to achieve the R value you are looking for. This has been known as the "larsen" system. The deeper you make them you'll need to increase your outside slab to account for this or you may end up burying the timber frame and who wants that.

Hi Joel, I have not heard of the Mortise & Tenon publication. Can you forward the website or any other information you may have.

Thanks,
Maurice

Thanks Chris,
Your blog is excellent. It will take sometime to go through it but it is time well spent.

Tradition says "bury the frame", the larsen system will work too. Infilling in the wall can be done on a simple frame without dealing with the shelf needed to support the exterior system. I want variables, choices to solve problems which come up. Why box your self in with one system?

I need get on the ball and subscribe to the M&T.

Tim

Great thread. I think I read all of the posts until they started talking about the death star, wha???

My wife and I built a cord wood bath house. We used denim batt insulation in the roof. GREAT PRODUCT! Highly recommended. non-toxic material rescued from jean factory waste stream.
http://www.bondedlogic.com/

The cordwood infill is beautiful and performs well. However, I would NEVER do it again. Nearly wrecked my body and my mind wasn't too happy either...I believe it took me 6 months to wall in a 200 sf structure working 10 hours/day 6 days/week /wife working quarter time. So in deciding how to infill our timber frame we put high on the list that it must NOT be so labor intensive, which is why SIPS have been considered, but I think we are leaning towards something more sustainable. My property has a lot of clay and straw is farmed right next door. Now just need some kind cement mixer pourable straw clay mix into a form, or maybe some type of adobe brick press. Mass production has its' merits for this old body!

Lastly I read a book on sustainable building in England that mentioned board and batten siding on straw bale INSTEAD of stucco which brought straw bale right back in the running for me. Anybody familiar with this method?? Must handle moisture well if it works in England. I believe they provided an air space for chimney effect behind the cladding similar to roof insulation air space. My first thought though is, what about fires? But it does sound like way less work.

In my simple straw bale cabin I did not use any clay on the inside or outside. 2x4's 2' on center on the outside then house wrap and clapboard siding. The frame was vertically boarded with the bales going on next.

I would dip the whole bale in a clay slip next time, to seal it up, it would be a messy job I would stuff any voids with wads of loose straw mixed with a slip.

Tim