I'm looking for a good handsaw to finish tennon cuts where the circular saw won't reach. I've been focuing on Japanese pull saws, but I have no idea which to order. Does anyone have any recommendations for large 8 x 10 tenon cuts? Thanks.

I would like to speak up on behalf of Western saws for timber framing. If you get a couple of good old ones(easy to find on ebay and tool dealers) and learn to resharpen them yourself (only takes patience and a steady hand, you have a tool that will last your whole career instead of a long series of "disposable" saws that bring no joy in their use.

Plus, I've found Japanese saws too small for serious timber work. (I'm sure there will be rebuttal, but I have my opinion, too).

That being said, I like the western style Stanley 26" sharp tooth saw -- it is disposable, but it is aggressive and a good value.

+ 1 on this. I have an assortment of Japanese style saws - nothing 'timber sized' - the ones I have are very useful for furniture, small scale timber work, and random carpentry work. And I have one that I use for field work - trimming pegs, etc.

But for cutting timber in the shop - I'm a big fan of a full size Stanley saw for tenon work. Cuts flesh as easily as wood. I think the one in my box now has the same blade pattern as the 'sharp tooth' - but is definitely not disposable.

Wooden handle, feels good in the hand, and you can play a tune on it.

Try searching Docking Saw here on the forum. A docking saw with 4-5 teeth per inch is the way to go. You may even find that skill saw collecting dust.

Tim

How about for ripping in green wood?

I have several old Disston rip saws ranging from a 26" 6ppi D8 to a 30" 4 ppi. I don't know which model it is, but it's old -- has a nib.

The big one I would put up against any rip saw of any pattern. It takes a man to use it, but it will flat out move some wood.

Quite some time ago, while I was visiting with Jack Sobon he mentioned to me that he had lost his handsaw sharpener man.
This elderly man had be sharpening Jack's handsaws for many years, and it was his time to go to the great saw sharpening spot in heaven.....rest in peace and thanks for the many years of great service.......

Without a saw sharpener on hand, Jack had to find a new saw to use for his timber framing projects.

He told me he tried many different "new" handsaws and finally found one that he liked very much.

It is a Stanley SharpTooth handsaw.

The specs are: it is 26" long, with 11TPI (tips per inch) or 12 point.
It is for all wood types and is considered a "Fine Finish Saw".

It can be used as a cross cut saw as well as a rip saw.




Jack had mentioned to me that these are at times hard to find, and he suggested we stock a few of them for anyone who can't seem to find them in their local stores....

We have one on hand now if anyone should need one.....

Jim Rogers

I only rip if it is necessary other wise the axe is employed. The docking saw for cross cuts and in some instances I love the shark saw.

That is interesting, Jack doesn't sharpen his saws.

Tim

Google "Medallion Toolworks". They custom make western saws to your own specs.

There are some bigger japanese ryobi saws out there.
I use a japanese blade I like from tashiro's hardware in seattle:

http://www.tashirohardware.com/Tashiros_Hardware_LLC/Home.html

The blade I use is called the Timber blade, with a King handle.
I've gone through quite a few of these now, in my shop they last between 1 and 2 years.
The western saws are often the way to for the deeper, heavier cuts....