I have a question similar to Mo; how to handle the detail of where the timber and brick infill meet. This application is for new construction for a enclosed porch. The timbers have been kiln dried but there is still some shrinkage and the timber is pulling away from the brick. What kind of joint should there be? The orginal house has the same detail but was built in the 1920's, there is no sign of separation there. Anyway, I am open for suggestions; maybe a particular joint material that allows movement and looks like a mortar joint....?
Thanks,
TD

Aside from any "sealant" like caulk, etc, that would move w/ expansion/contraction, I'd explore inserting a long spline in between the post and brick. I guess you'd have to groove the brick (saw kerf?).

A plastic spline would be my choice.

Hi Tammis,

This is a relatively easy puzzle to solve.

The brick noggin is tied to the post or wall stud by using a wire screw loop. These are normally used to build wooden windows into a brick wall but they can equally be used in reverse to attach brick walls to timber frame. The loop is set at the mortar line and pushed down into the mortar as the next course is added. Set these every 3 courses. Ideally use lime mortar.

Regards

Ken Hume

i did something like this with glass block infill. i put a block-width rabbet along the outside edge of the timbers and set the bricks into that. this gave a clean wood to glass fit. a strip of expansion foam is the insulation inside the rabbet. used galvanized strapping anchored to the post and set in the mortar every 3rd course, much as Ken said. i'd do this again- one change i'd make though would be to align the braces against the inside of the timber and inside of the blocks- infilling against the 45 was picky (my wife made some fused glass 'shelves').

Hi Tammis;

I cannot specifically answer your question, but I had a few thoughts. I think timbers have always been used "green" or unseasoned, however I am of the opinion that old wood is generally much better wood, more dense and rot resistant with annual rings of 30 to 40 per inch. Perhaps more dense woods do not shrink as much as our modern, fast-growth (5-15 rings per inch?) wood so your shrinkage problem was not as much of an issue in the distant past, although 1920 is not the era I am speaking of.

It sounds like this is something that is already in place and you are asking how to deal with the cracks and how to do it differently next time for better results.

You may need to wait until the timbers are seasoned and then, in the dry season, knock out the mortar around the edges and repoint, or parge or plaster over the bricks to get a perfect joint.

Next time, defintiely use lime mortar. Lime is a miracle product which both absorbs water (i.e. away from the timber) and expells it very quickly into the air. I do not understand how this works but it does. Using lime will help the timbers last longer and is self healing in the event of small cracks.

Here in New England we do not have half-timbering, but we have brick nogging hidden in the walls of some old houses between the posts, studs and braces to cut the drafts, keep the vermen out, provid a fire block, and act as a heat sink to moderate the daily indoor temperature swings. Some people use the word "insulation" with nogging but the R value of brick is low. The nogging I have seen is typically tight to the timbers with no signs of wood shrinkage. I have wondered how they managed this and I have no real answer.

I enjoyed living in an 1813 cape with brick nogging, except for when I had to change the vent for the clothes dryer!

Jim

This is a great thread....but pics are desperately needed guys!

My project plan deals with a 17th century brick house and Ive got all sorts of questions when it comes to affixing the exterior brick. Ive read some stuff suggesting noggin was done inside the exterior also, as a sort of two ply brick layer approach....then again I am new to this so I may be misunderstanding.

Pics are sexy though!!!