What kind of tools, jigs or methods are you guys using to accurately put holes in tennons and mortises so that when you assemble them they line up and have the correct draw. This seems to be something I need to improve on. I raised two Run-in sheds
this weekend and I was not impressed with my peg holes.
Thane

It definitely helps to have a 1/2 or 3/4 tapered rasp on hand when learning to drill peg holes, as then you can repair the bad stuff.
Generally I lay out the holes on the mortises only, then drill using a ship auger(aprox 16" long) and two rafter angle squares to guide the drill, something else that works as a drill guide is the square corner of a 4x4 block.
Once I'm happy with the fit of a frame, I reach in through the mortise peg hole with my auger and prick the tenon(two spins backwards).
After the frame comes apart again the tenons are drilled off center to create the draw. It helps to actually measure 1/8 closer to the tenon shoulder rather than eyeballing it.
Don't be discouraged, this is a hard part of timber framing.

And don't forget the new mirror jig:

http://www.tfguild.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=19263&page=2#Post19263

I drill the majority of my peg holes horizontally, I can brace the drilling devise this way better than from the top. I zero out the combo square and use it to square the long bit in two directions, with it set and braced against my leg I commence drilling through the first side of the mortice, I realign the bit on the other side of the mortice with the square a second time and let it go.

I did use my Boss boring machine for some 1" holes and was very pleased with the results, now all I need is a 3/4" bit for the Boss, maybe a second machine just for pegging.

I recently tried the mirror with the hole in the middle, I found the chips obscure the view and I was lost after that. I need to play with it some more.

Tim

Thane--

search "drawboring" in the search box here.

Some old threads dealing w/ this topic:
neat to go down memory lane...

http://www.tfguild.org/forums/ubbthreads...h=true#Post9560

http://www.tfguild.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=17096&page=0&fpart=1

http://www.tfguild.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2341&page=0&fpart=1

http://www.tfguild.org/forums/ubbthreads...h=true#Post1881

big fan of the speed square to check for parallel with the drill bit. once you practice a bit you'll not need to stop the drill, just adjust as you go.

daiku's mirror is another great idea - but i haven't tried it yet.

also, for mortises you can drill first...
or you can drill after you get the mortise cut and cleaned up - the latter will allow a bit of adjustment if you get off course... i prefer the former method.

If you are using a boring machine to clean the mortice don't bore the peg hole first, you will run out of wood, the feed screw is using, in that hole and it could be a bugger.

Tim

Hmmm... sounds like everyone has there method that works for them. I,m certainly not interested in doing pre-assembly. I have been using the speed square and wood parralels up this point but have to admit that I could be more careful. Drilling straight hole is not my problem. I think the drill bit may be wondering on occation without my noticing. Spotting the location with a small bit(say 5/32) before entering with the auger may help.
Also, a jig that slips into the mortise up against the notch and has a side plate with pilot holes for the spotting drill. This jig would verify the mortise size as well as spotting the peg hole. If most of mortises we do are standard sizes, 1.5x5.5 and 2x7.5),then this should work. Having been a Tool & Die maker makes me think this way.
Am I out to lunch or what?
Thane

When using an auger bit, I would argue against "piloting" the hole first. Pilot holes typically work well w/ twist bits only, not augers.

just my 2-cents.

Thane:
Pre-assembly is the best method to insure your peg holes are correctly laid out to draw bore the frame together. And to insure that your frame is true to the desired dimensions or the dimensions on the plan.

It is standard procedure to test fit every joint to be sure that on raising day everything goes together correctly.

At that time, we usually have the hole through the mortise already bored. Then, as mentioned above, run the bit into the mortise's peg hole and let the lead screw tip, mark its location on the tenon. After, disassemble the joint and move this location to create the draw bore.

With most tenons the peg hole will be moved closer to the shoulder to create the adequate draw bore needed.