Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: Thane O'Dell]
#20061
06/02/09 12:23 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 918
bmike
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try a cuprinol if you want some chemistry. or a cabot's clear.
lots of stuff out there. how toxic do you want to get? and who will you believe. plenty of marketing hype, for sure.
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: Thane O'Dell]
#20066
06/02/09 10:36 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 53
kfhines
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Take a look at Land Ark interior and exterior wood finishes it can be had with color pigments added. I believe it was originally developed for use with large green timbers. I have not had much experience with this product, but I am currently applying it to my frames interior.
kfhines
"When dictatorship is a fact, revolution becomes a right." Victor Hugo
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: Thane O'Dell]
#20071
06/02/09 01:24 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 570
OurBarns1
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I am building this frame from Eastern White Pine. The timbers are freshly cut and it will be 3 weeks before I am finished cutting joints. Should I wait until then to apply sealant/stain so the wood can dry a bit first?
Thane Actually, I was thinking that waiting might just be the best strategy of all. Let them breathe for a while: at least 6 months.
Don Perkins Member, TFG
to know the trees...
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: OurBarns1]
#20075
06/02/09 04:49 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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Two topics on board speaking of breathing, corn and timber. I like to breath as well. I do understand to a point the application of sealers but are they all they are cracked up to be. bmike mentions hype, what is the ultimate goal? I have a deck on my house with no sealers what so ever and it is working on 15 years, cedar and tamarack. I would happily replace it or pieces of it in 5 years in stead of reapplying any numerous coats of sealers with their attached cost and time and then turn around and have to replace pieces on top of it. The same goes for interior, let it breath.
Tim
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#20089
06/03/09 02:38 AM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 235
Thane O'Dell
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I'm inclined to agree with you guys on letting the wood breath and season for a couple of months before attempting to apply any sealer. I will speak to the client to see if that would be possible. Thane
Life is short so put your heart into something that will last a long time.
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: Thane O'Dell]
#20090
06/03/09 03:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 217
Don P
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Posts: 217 |
Sikkens specifies that it's finishes (which I consider to be films) must be applied at below 19%. The FPL did some studies and found that applying finishes to wood with any weathering greatly diminished their life because the finish is applied to damaged fibers. might be something of interest in their finishing techlines; http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/public...amp;unit_id=TMU
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: Don P]
#20091
06/03/09 10:19 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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Don, is the 19% for the surface of a timber or all the way through? Also does this apply Land Ark, it has been suggested to apply Land Ark to fresh sawn timber as a way to keep blue stain to a minimum, does this really help.
Tim
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: bmike]
#20094
06/03/09 02:06 PM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 895
daiku
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Clark - does the spar varnish harden into a barrier finish? I've always been leery of barrier finishes on green wood. I've had some bad luck with poly and varnish - hazing, cracking, etc. Mike: Spar is a flexible finish. So it can move along with the wood. I'm not talking about building up a thick, water-tight shell on green wood. As you and Don point out, that leads to other problems. I'm just saying that it's more resitant to UV, and doesn't seem to dry out the way oil-based finishes do. For interior timbers, we use our own variation on the Recipie listed here. It's a lot of work to heat up the spirits, melt the wax, etc, but we love the result. CB.
-- Clark Bremer Minneapolis Proud Member of the TFG
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: daiku]
#20098
06/03/09 05:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 918
bmike
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Mike:
Spar is a flexible finish. So it can move along with the wood. I'm not talking about building up a thick, water-tight shell on green wood. As you and Don point out, that leads to other problems. I'm just saying that it's more resitant to UV, and doesn't seem to dry out the way oil-based finishes do.
Thanks.
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Re: sealsealing ends and pockets
[Re: bmike]
#20108
06/04/09 02:34 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 217
Don P
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I don't have a can of Sikkens right at hand I believe they want it dry to the bone, they do have a coating to apply until its dry. The reason is that it blows the film forming finish off if applied to green material, I'm not a fan but sometimes the customers know more than I do. I've only used LandArk a couple of times and don't see that it would be a problem on green. I suspect it poisons the food source and prevents bluestain that way. The ways to stop blue are to deny it moisture <~25%MC and it can't grow. Deny it oxygen, ponding or sprinklers do that. Poison the food, there are chemicals that do that. The main advantage I see to winter cutting is that the surface dries to below bluestain range before the temps warm up and so it doesn't get a foothold. I was dripping wet and stickering green lumber today hoping it'll dry quick enough to avoid it in these temps and humidity. Some days you pays your money and hope for the best.
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