The link above will be using another forum's bandwidth. I was given that space to use and at least in my mind consider it for the benefit of their members. I'm sure it's no big deal but I don't want to abuse them, hope you all understand.

I have been putting the calcs on a site I set up here;
http://windyhilllogworks.com/Calcs/beamindex.html
The same calc is at the top of the list.
You can right click and "save as" and save them on your computer to run offline or modify if you want.

Don, thanks for pointing that out and providing the calculation information.

Tim

Thanks Don. That one is even more useful.

Here's an update:

I’ve been doing a lot of reading since I submitted the original question in this thread. Besides this esteemed group I’ve read Chappell, Bensen/Gruber, Sobon/Schroeder cover to cover. Compared t a lot of the work I’ve seen (and many of you have done) this is a relatively basic project; hopefully, well matched to my rookie status.

I’d like to review my plans from the ground up and encourage your critique. The basic concept is unchanged but the dimensions have been changed to 16x24 in four bents. I realize that this size could be done in three bents. Four bents will cost more in materials, take more labor but, as mentioned in a previous post, I’m trying to keep the pieces as manageable as possible. This barn will be used for firewood, tools , a small pickup and some heavy stuff like an old iron stove and a couple 5 hp hit/miss engines that I hope to restore.

The foundation will be 4” reinforced concrete floating on stone. There will be one course of block with a total of 20 “J” bolts and an 8’ wide opening in the block wall (for the door) at the gable end.

I’m planning a 1x8 pressure treated sill and a 6x8 timber sill all held in place by the “J” bolts. For the corner joints I will use either a tongue/fork joint locked by a 4” square tenon from the post or, a pegged mortise and tenon and a stub tenon on the bottom of the post. If I have to scarf the long timber sill I’ll use a pegged half lap at either a “J” bolt location or under a post with a 4’ tenon.

The posts will be 8x8 and be long enough to allow 7 ½’+ headroom under the tie beams and allow 14” distance between the tie beam joint and any post top joinery. There will be 4x4 horizontal girts dovetailed to the posts, one between each bent halfway between the sill and plate. On the end with the door I plan two 4x8 posts between the sill and the tie beam defining the door, at the opposite gable end there will be one centered post between sill and tie beam.

The tie beams are 8x8 and joined to the posts with a pegged/wedged half dovetail.

Still haven’t decided on continuous or intermediate plates. It seems no one had anything good to say about the latter. I understand the concerns about tensile strength and the need to not take too much “meat” from the top of the posts. If I can a find a trustworthy source of straight 24’ 8x8 beans and can figure a way to get them in place with minimal manpower (thanks for the info on Gin Posts and Parbuckling) I’ll go with continuous plates.

For the rafter design I’m considering seven (7) 4x6 rafters with pegged tongue/fork joints at the peak. At the plate I will use a step lap joint with 2x4 tails. The tails will be elevated 1’ for strength and the resultant gap will be screened allowing for ventilation. I’m considering some dovetailed purlins especially if I end up with intermediate plates. I’m also considering collar ties 1/3 the way from the peak and queen posts on the gable end rafters to take some of the strain off the tie beams. Is this overkill?

Knee braces will be 30” 3x5.

The sides will have vertical 1” planking (T&G if I can afford/find it) and painted clapboard matching the main camp building. The roof will be metal also matching the main camp. I’m still not sure what to put under it but I suspect horizontal 1” T&G would work. I assume one can get a peak vent for metal roofing to work with the ventilation under the eaves.

I suspect that with small 8’ bents this design is probably overbuilt. Do you think the posts, tie beams or plates could be downsized? I’d appreciate an aggressive critique of any portion you consider faulty as I hope to have the pad in place and supplies/tools ordered by mid-April or as soon as the ice is out of the ground.

Thanks for the help; I’ll send pictures,

Carl

Carl,

Sounds like a good plan in general.

It depends on the species, grade, and load, but I don't think your tie beams are big enough. Realistically, they're probably not going to catastrophically fail (plenty of barns have been built with smaller timbers), but you might as well do it right.

The rafters also seem to be too small and too far apart (intuitively). With metal roofing, either use closer common rafters with 2x4 purlins over, or principal rafters with closer common purlins. It's a lot lot more work fully sheathing a roof, and it doesn't really gain you much with metal roofing (maybe with condensation, but it's easier to just open the doors up).

Lastly, you can use either regular boards, or T&G, but I often use shiplap.

Timberwrestler,

Thanks for taking the time to review my proposal.

Tie Beams- I realize that 8x8 is a bit light but "assumed" having 4 ties with wedged half dovetail joints and collar ties on the principal rafters to reduce spreading force would be adequate. I'll go to 8x10 for a little extra margin.

Rafters- You're clearly right on this. Looks like either heavier and/or more rafters.

Metal roof- 2x4 purlins on 2' centers makes a lot of sense, guess I'm having trouble with the look from the inside.

Carl