Joinery axes.
#22560
02/07/10 03:30 PM
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Dave Shepard
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What do you use, if you use one? I found a little 1 3/4 pound axe in my collection of stuff so put an edge on it yesterday and made a couple of test housings in a block of scrap. It worked quite nicely. It is small, but it seems to be very controllable. I've used the GB forest axe at Heartwood, also a nice sharp little axe. I'd be interested to hear about what others are using.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23342
04/15/10 12:47 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Hey Dave,
I have not used an axe for framing much, but I plan to give it a whirl. Somebody around here has some cool videos that they have posted to youtube that show the axe being used nicely. Search "Mortice Part 2". The power of the axe in competent hands has inspired me to look at the axe in a different light.
I have a question about the axes for two different scenarios and what is desired in a cutting edge. The Gransfor Carpenters axe has a straight edge that seems like it would be good for housings, because it seems to me that the depth of the blows could be controlled easier. The other scenario, could be just removing wood for say a half lap.
Is it more beneficial to have the straight edge or curved edge or both and for what purposes?
Thanks
Last edited by mo; 04/15/10 12:50 PM.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: mo]
#23347
04/15/10 11:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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I haven't seen the part 2 yet.
For removing wood around a tenon, the axe is nice as well. I am sure there is a video for that as well, just not uploaded yet.
Curved edge, imo.
Tim
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#23350
04/16/10 12:39 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Gabel
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I second the curved bit part. the straight bits take too much force to drive it into the wood,as the whole edge is hitting at once and the gransfors version is sharpened too acutely to pop a chip or withstand a knot. they're for something other than timber framing, imo.
I use the same axe for both scenarios, as it's the same exact process.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Gabel]
#23389
04/20/10 12:08 AM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Thanks for the responses guys. So would you prefer the Small Forest or the Scandinavian?
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: mo]
#23390
04/20/10 12:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Dave Shepard
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I think the G-B axes at Heartwood were of the Small Forest variety. I really liked them. I'll do a search for the Scandinavian.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23391
04/20/10 12:49 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Dave Shepard
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I see the Small Forest is 1 1/2 pounds and the Scandinavian is 2. I think the heavier axe would work a little better.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23394
04/20/10 02:22 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,882
TIMBEAL
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I like the shape of this little axe. At 2 pounds(is that with the handle?) it could be ok. I would enjoy trying it. I can't put out the cash and at the price, I would want to play with it first. I would ask for just the head and make my own handle. I wonder if they sell just the heads? It is like a mini hewing axe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DL1...5C2271ZZBXRNPPPTim
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#23399
04/20/10 03:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Hey Tim, I have a copy of their "Axe Book". The head is two lbs. There axes are more expensive but I like the way they are crafted. I bet they would sell you just the head. On the back of the "Axe Book" they publish, I noticed that there US headquarters is in Summerville, SC. That's about 15 minutes from my door! Matter of fact I was just there looking at a restoration (Garden House) job yesterday. Im gonna stop in and talk to them. Anybody have any questions they would like me to ask?
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