Ok Will, I can ask them that very question. For clarification on my end: The current 1900 head weighs 3 lbs and the face is 7". Does your question mean a 4.5 lbs head with say a 9" face?

"Half again as heavy" is new to me.

Yep, you got it phraseology wise...

But now that you quantify it out loud like that, 4.5 still seems on the light side. Maybe 5.5 lbs & 9" ?

I'd be into that as well. I've got puny arms though, so I'm not sure whether 4.5 or 5.5 would be better. I like the 1900 but it is really small.

I got to try a GB 1800 one time, and that was sweet.

I'd like a matched pair of left and right hewing axes from G-B, but about 8" wide and about 5.5 pounds or so. I've used their current right handed broad axe, but it's too small/light. I might just have to find a matching head to the one I've got and hang it for a lefty.

Been trying to find a nice old single bit for a scoring axe. The new stuff isn't too impressive and the old ones I find around have all been beat to death.

Dave,

I've seen some guys use competion axes for scoring logs before hewing.

Bailey's has one that I want to buy.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=41040&catID=10218

Rooster

I have looked at that axe, too. I would like to try it some day. For scoring I like a longer handle, custom made to fit the user.

The double bevel G-B would also function as a good scoring axe, with a longer handle.

Tim

Just so you know G-B does custom work as well. Here you can see my 1900 axe and then in comparison to what I had requested custom made. Ironically I have yet to use my new axe to report back but I had the same issue....wanting a 5# axe head. I am sure they could make a matching set, opposite face too.

i use the GB carpenter's axe for roughing out tenons. i actually like that the face is flat for this. one thing though is that the short handle makes it less than ideal for scoring. their scandinavian axe is a beautiful thing, but also not the best imho for scoring. the face is quite small. very nice for limbing though, comparable with a chainsaw for speed and leaving a nice finish on the nipped branches.

their hewing axes with the double bevel don't really make a perfect flat surface- more like smaller and smaller 'scoops' or scallops that approach flat as you work the face. good for cutting re-curve in log construction though.

what i would like to know from those folks at Gransfors is why the sheath for the broadaxe doesn't stay on? it's diy fixable afterwards, but it would be nice if it stayed on snug. not to be cranky, just a suggestion.

I hope G-B is listening on the sheath issue.

Tim

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