Joinery axes.
#22560
02/07/10 03:30 PM
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Dave Shepard
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What do you use, if you use one? I found a little 1 3/4 pound axe in my collection of stuff so put an edge on it yesterday and made a couple of test housings in a block of scrap. It worked quite nicely. It is small, but it seems to be very controllable. I've used the GB forest axe at Heartwood, also a nice sharp little axe. I'd be interested to hear about what others are using.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23342
04/15/10 12:47 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
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mo
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Hey Dave,
I have not used an axe for framing much, but I plan to give it a whirl. Somebody around here has some cool videos that they have posted to youtube that show the axe being used nicely. Search "Mortice Part 2". The power of the axe in competent hands has inspired me to look at the axe in a different light.
I have a question about the axes for two different scenarios and what is desired in a cutting edge. The Gransfor Carpenters axe has a straight edge that seems like it would be good for housings, because it seems to me that the depth of the blows could be controlled easier. The other scenario, could be just removing wood for say a half lap.
Is it more beneficial to have the straight edge or curved edge or both and for what purposes?
Thanks
Last edited by mo; 04/15/10 12:50 PM.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: mo]
#23347
04/15/10 11:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
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TIMBEAL
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I haven't seen the part 2 yet.
For removing wood around a tenon, the axe is nice as well. I am sure there is a video for that as well, just not uploaded yet.
Curved edge, imo.
Tim
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#23350
04/16/10 12:39 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Gabel
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I second the curved bit part. the straight bits take too much force to drive it into the wood,as the whole edge is hitting at once and the gransfors version is sharpened too acutely to pop a chip or withstand a knot. they're for something other than timber framing, imo.
I use the same axe for both scenarios, as it's the same exact process.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Gabel]
#23389
04/20/10 12:08 AM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Thanks for the responses guys. So would you prefer the Small Forest or the Scandinavian?
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: mo]
#23390
04/20/10 12:43 AM
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Dave Shepard
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I think the G-B axes at Heartwood were of the Small Forest variety. I really liked them. I'll do a search for the Scandinavian.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23391
04/20/10 12:49 AM
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Dave Shepard
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I see the Small Forest is 1 1/2 pounds and the Scandinavian is 2. I think the heavier axe would work a little better.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Dave Shepard]
#23394
04/20/10 02:22 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
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TIMBEAL
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I like the shape of this little axe. At 2 pounds(is that with the handle?) it could be ok. I would enjoy trying it. I can't put out the cash and at the price, I would want to play with it first. I would ask for just the head and make my own handle. I wonder if they sell just the heads? It is like a mini hewing axe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DL1...5C2271ZZBXRNPPPTim
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#23399
04/20/10 03:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Hey Tim, I have a copy of their "Axe Book". The head is two lbs. There axes are more expensive but I like the way they are crafted. I bet they would sell you just the head. On the back of the "Axe Book" they publish, I noticed that there US headquarters is in Summerville, SC. That's about 15 minutes from my door! Matter of fact I was just there looking at a restoration (Garden House) job yesterday. Im gonna stop in and talk to them. Anybody have any questions they would like me to ask?
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Will Truax]
#23406
04/20/10 06:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
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mo
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Ok Will, I can ask them that very question. For clarification on my end: The current 1900 head weighs 3 lbs and the face is 7". Does your question mean a 4.5 lbs head with say a 9" face?
"Half again as heavy" is new to me.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: mo]
#23407
04/20/10 09:21 PM
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Joined: May 2002
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Will Truax
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Yep, you got it phraseology wise...
But now that you quantify it out loud like that, 4.5 still seems on the light side. Maybe 5.5 lbs & 9" ?
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Will Truax]
#23422
04/21/10 11:44 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
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timberwrestler
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I'd be into that as well. I've got puny arms though, so I'm not sure whether 4.5 or 5.5 would be better. I like the 1900 but it is really small.
I got to try a GB 1800 one time, and that was sweet.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: timberwrestler]
#23733
06/06/10 05:38 PM
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Dave Shepard
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I'd like a matched pair of left and right hewing axes from G-B, but about 8" wide and about 5.5 pounds or so. I've used their current right handed broad axe, but it's too small/light. I might just have to find a matching head to the one I've got and hang it for a lefty.
Been trying to find a nice old single bit for a scoring axe. The new stuff isn't too impressive and the old ones I find around have all been beat to death.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Craig Roost]
#23739
06/07/10 09:15 AM
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TIMBEAL
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I have looked at that axe, too. I would like to try it some day. For scoring I like a longer handle, custom made to fit the user.
The double bevel G-B would also function as a good scoring axe, with a longer handle.
Tim
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: TIMBEAL]
#23745
06/07/10 07:55 PM
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Bruce Chrustie
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Just so you know G-B does custom work as well. Here you can see my 1900 axe and then in comparison to what I had requested custom made. Ironically I have yet to use my new axe to report back but I had the same issue....wanting a 5# axe head. I am sure they could make a matching set, opposite face too.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: Bruce Chrustie]
#23747
06/08/10 01:21 PM
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Joined: May 2007
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toivo
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i use the GB carpenter's axe for roughing out tenons. i actually like that the face is flat for this. one thing though is that the short handle makes it less than ideal for scoring. their scandinavian axe is a beautiful thing, but also not the best imho for scoring. the face is quite small. very nice for limbing though, comparable with a chainsaw for speed and leaving a nice finish on the nipped branches.
their hewing axes with the double bevel don't really make a perfect flat surface- more like smaller and smaller 'scoops' or scallops that approach flat as you work the face. good for cutting re-curve in log construction though.
what i would like to know from those folks at Gransfors is why the sheath for the broadaxe doesn't stay on? it's diy fixable afterwards, but it would be nice if it stayed on snug. not to be cranky, just a suggestion.
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Re: Joinery axes.
[Re: toivo]
#23753
06/09/10 12:58 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
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TIMBEAL
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I hope G-B is listening on the sheath issue.
Tim
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Re: Joinery axes.
#24496
09/25/10 08:47 PM
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,687
Jim Rogers
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Is anyone else having trouble viewing this page?
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
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Re: Joinery axes.
#24497
09/25/10 10:30 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
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TIMBEAL
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It seem to be all there. What is it you are not seeing?
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Re: Joinery axes.
#24498
09/25/10 11:12 PM
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,687
Jim Rogers
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not me, someone else in CA is having trouble seeing this thread and he has asked me for help, but I can't figure out what's wrong. It maybe his settings in his computer, I don't know for sure. But he can't see the second page or something like that.
I suggested he check his browser settings or his topic viewing options and see if they match his wife's computer settings as she can view all of these posts.....
Jim
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
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Re: Joinery axes.
#24499
09/26/10 05:40 AM
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Piston
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I can see them all Jim.
.....and it's making me want to spend some more money on axes now!
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