I am a timber frame hobbyist and would like to make my own sips for the roof and gable ends of a log cabin and for a restored barn. I can get all the material but I would like to know what type of glue to use and what type of press I should use.

I don't think that literally making your own sips would work that well. But there's another option that gives you almost the same result, and is much easier.

It's usually called wrap and strap. For example on a roof, you could lay down your interior finish, rigid foam sheets over that, spray foam the seams, tar paper, and put 2x strapping over that, screwed through the foam with Oly type screws into the rafters or purlins. The variations are endless with interior finishes, types of foam, solid sheathing on the outside, or vertical strapping for siding. Just make sure you get a good seal between your sheets. Framing details for rake and eave overhangs need to be thought out as well.

thanks so much, that sounds exactly what I'd like to do. Is there somewhere that I can get more detailed instructions? thanks
Raymond

Here is a pdf on the topic, I would give credit to whoever it was that posted it a while back, but I don't recall who. It is detailed, I use a simplified system very similar to this.

http://sustainable.cchrc.org/docs/REMOTE_Manual.pdf

Tim

A timber framing company, friend of mine, in Maine made his own panel press using hydraulic rams and a electric pump.

He would purchase sheet of osb and foam sheets as well as the glue in 55 gal barrels. Basically a gorilla glue type of glue.

He would coat the osb and create a stack of panels and then press them to a specific amount of pressure for a certain amount of time and make his own insulated panels for his own frames.

These are not truly "SIPS" as they haven't been tested and qualified by an independent lab to say they are "structural" so they are called insulated panels, instead.

It can be done but it isn't something easy or cheap to do.

thanks, I downloaded it. is there any chance of getting a rundown of the simplified system. For example. how to lay the 2x straping and what kind of screws to use? Window/door casings (2x6)? I know that is a lot to ask. I am a 7th and 8th grade science teacher so I know what it is like to get a lot of questions.

Hi Friend,

I once saw commercial panels being made and this was done by assembling a stack of SIPs and then enclosing them within a large plastic sheet envelop which was then evacuated of all air until the vacuum pulled resulted in the ambient air pressure (15lbs per sq inch) compressing all the panels in the stack.

Even if you do not intend to use this method you now at least know the general pressure level needed to ensure good bonding.

Regards

Ken Hume

rfriend, the basic rundown is......

I skip the stud wall, as I am applying heavy planks at least 1-1/2" thick plus to the timber frame and attaching the foam directly to the planks. I like to see 2" planks, there is less chance of the screws showing through the inside. The planks are the inside finish and the sheathing as well. I use panel screws from the s.i.p. industry as they come in various lengths, I fine tune the length with the thickness of the strapping which is applied to the outside of the foam to hold it in place.

In the pdf you will see they use a vapor barrier, poly and ice and water in different applications. I don't. I would recommend paying attention around the window and door opening as this type of house will not breath at all and the cold windows will sweat at these points, Ice and Water around the window box is needed and use window drains in the sill, there is some prefabbed stuff available for this purpose.

Tim

Tim, thanks so much, I'm going to give this a try this summer. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Raymond

Thanks Tim. Do the planks qualify for shear like plywood sheathing would?

Raymond, how's it going this summer?