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Re: flattening backs [Re: TIMBEAL] #23007 03/11/10 04:04 AM
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brad_bb Offline
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To be honest, I don't know if my glass is float or plate. I just went in and asked them to cut me a piece of 3/8 thick to my dimensions. I wonder if the difference would be significant in the distance over which we use it, and the way we use it? I do know that the glass I got works plenty good for my sharpening. I've put plenty of elbow grease into my glass when tuning a slick. No problem. I have the glass supported by an MDF frame/board, and this sets on my steel workbench. So long as your frame is on a reasonably flat surface, I think you'd be fine. Not you'd have this issue, but the glass does have a little flex to it before it would break, and I think the thicker you go, the stronger it will be. You could step up to 1/2 inch, but more than that is probably more than is necessary.

Re: flattening backs [Re: brad_bb] #23013 03/11/10 01:48 PM
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Jim Rogers Online Confused
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We have some plate glass piece here that we sell. I'd have to measure them to be sure of what the dimensions are before I comment on them.
If anyone is interested in a piece.


Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Re: flattening backs [Re: Jim Rogers] #23023 03/12/10 11:49 AM
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Mark Davidson Offline
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Glass is great, but the sandpaper needs to be glued well. I always stack another piece of glass on top of the paper I'm gluing and put some weight on it till dry. Also I use a straight edge to spread the glue as evenly as possible.
Even then, sand paper on glass is not like water stones, and I'll often see a bit of rounding at the edges of the surface I'm working on.

Re: flattening backs [Re: Mark Davidson] #23025 03/12/10 01:36 PM
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daiku Offline
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I use spray adhesive (3M Super 77). Afeter a few times, you need to scrape off the old glue with a razor blade. CB.


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Clark Bremer
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