Hello,

After years of circular saw use and other material referencing tools, I am looking to grow the "freedom tools" of my kit. Once I have my axe and saw I think I will about have it. So, after getting snubbed on ebay in the last few seconds of an auction for disston handsaws, I thought I would try here. If any of you have a handsaw that you might want to part with (I know, this is a longshot) send me a pm please. Looking for a good crosscut.

Thanks,

Mo

I use a docking saw for larger work. The Stanley Sharp Saw for smaller work. I like the title Freedom Saw. I resharpen the docking saw but not the Sharp Saw. The freedom comes in where you can reuse the older saw easily. Most of the Sharp saws have hardened teeth. They sure cut nice though.

I just received in the mail a new tool catalog, in which I found some frame saws with replacement blades. I am curious at to how these would work for joinery? Also if the blade is sharpenable?

A nice rip saw is good to have at hand as well.

What else is in your freedom tool kit?

Tim

I've seen some frame saws that use a tooth like the Stanley Sharptooth. My concern is that you will be limited by the depth of the saw. Might be ok for 6" stuff, but bottom out on larger. I'd have to see one. I've got to learn how to sharpen hand saws, I've got all the tools around here.

Tim, I remember that docking saw from the workshop. I could tell when you were using it across the tent. It has a very distinct sound. The Stanley saws are nice, but sometimes I think that they may be a little too fine for end cutting an 8"x12" timber.

I most often use the chain saw of dropping drops, cutting the shoulder would allow the use of the frame saw, I think. I may try a replacement blade and make the frame.

The sharp saw will handle and 8x12 but not with out side effects. They work better on dry wood.

One thing I noticed with the sharp saw is the longer 26" blade with the 12 points not 8 or 9 will fold if you push it too hard. I used to complain they did not make a nice 26" with 8 tpi, I understand why now. The bodies are all the same thickness and can't handle the force applied to the longer blade, they are doing a lot of work. This is why the oriental version is pulled.

An off topic but related question I reasoned out, has to do with my Makita impact driver with the 3 amp hour battery, the larger one. They changed to 1.5 amp hour
batteries which are smaller and lighter. When the tool makes too many falls from great heights the lesser weight battery will not impact the handle and break it. I wonder if the engineers at Makita came up with this solution to save the driver body from breaking. I am using my smaller batteries now and am testing my theory. I like to think of my impact driver as a freedom tool, freedom from those lousy cords.

Tim

so far:

chainsaw (orange)
boring machine
framing chisel
knife
slick
mallet
eastern saw
different handplanes
spokeshave
drawknife

so I guess I need more than the handsaw and axe. possibly a peavey and adze might round it out. The adze still has a lot to teach me. What would you add to the list?

I know this fellow who can build a house out of the back of his truck working on energy from food. Thats a nice option.

Compass/dividers and a string. A simple oil stone, two grits. And misc. other stuff. Might as well be comfortable.

I often wonder what the minimum tool kit would look like.

T-auger
mallet, (site made?)
1-1/2" chisel
slick
knife
one axe
string
dividers
sharpening stone
draw knife
shaving horse (site made)
one handsaw

Not sure a tape measure would be necessary same for the square, a straight edge maybe you could use the back of the saw.

Food, a bag of Oreo cookies, not double stuff and an apple.

I am not very good with lists, I am sure I am missing something. I do like to see what I could do with out sometimes not by choice. Sometime it wrecks the day and other times a discovery is made.

Tim

so long as he doesn't have to move the truck...

plumb line / bob
string or ink line (or chalk line)
slick - yes.

handplanes? depends, maybe a block plane, scrub plane, and something like a #5, although i do love my stanley #10 for tenons and other work...

waterstones
diamond stone
western saw
dozuki (changeable blades)
ryoba
square
layout knife or utility blade
chisel(s) (framing, and furniture sized)
mallet

and more, i'm sure.

Alright, so this isn't exactly on topic, but I sure love my Silky Katanaboy,
as featured in Timber Framing sometime last year. The two foot blade is
especially great for cutting fairly close to the line on crazy compound angles.
It's like a hand-powered chainsaw, only better.

Hey Zach,

Nope right on topic. Thanks for the info.

I am so tempted to get one of those.

Tim