On that Silky Katanaboy, I just wanted to add that I bought a fancy handmade
Japanese saw for well over $100, and it isn't half the saw as the Katanaboy.

I think a smaller saw would probably be appropriate for smaller timbers,
and I haven't used any other Silkys but the pruning saws.
Anyone else have a favorite Japanese or back saw for medium to big work?

Hey Zach,

Does the Katanaboy give a fine enough cut for shoulders?

Anybody used any of these?

LYNX

I've cut shoulders with the kattanaboy on rough-sawn timbers for a barn. It cut's so fast though, you have to be careful. The end grain is pretty remarkably smooth. I highly recommend the saw.

Mo – I've bought some truly wonderful Freedom Saws on ebay, often for very short money. On more than a few occasions, for starting bid price for lack of any other bidders. I have had several of those seemingly elusive Docking Saws arrive on my doorstep, shipping included, for less than the cost of a Stanly Shark Saw at the local Home Despot. You just have to be willing to look at all the pics of that long list of offerings, keywords don't do it. Most sellers have no idea what a user is looking for or how to describe it. Most buyers are collectors and are primarily interested in name of manufacture, and fortunately there were a multitude of very fine saw makers they pay little mind to. Look for features, skew and swept backs, nibs, funky elaborate embellished handles & saw-nuts Rosettes and of course plenty of heel and hardest of all to find (though lacking such is not a deal breaker) timber desirable TPI.

And FYI, orange saws are clown saws.

Tim – Despite my love for well tuned western saws, I am incredibly fond of my Silky Bigboy, so much so, I'm fighting an urge to find my Speedy Stitcher and make a Baldric for it (it is too big to hang on your hip which is why when they became available I finally bought a Gomboy after years of occasionally borrowing the formerly stubby little things) so at any moment I can just reach over my shoulder and have it in hand. Maybe I'll wait on that for a Katanaboy

http://www.silkysaws.com/BIGBOY-2000-Extra-Large-Teeth

Hey Mo,

I have to confess to just getting the Katanaboy, and I've only used it on a couple of logs and smaller yellow cedar timbers. I think it's too rough for cutting to the line. I took a look at the link Will gave, and I think the Big Boy is probably better—comes in a few different TPI choices.

But as I said, the Katanaboy is really nice for crazy angles diagonal to the grain and it cuts pretty straight, to then polish up with a chisel.

--Just took a look, the Katanaboy is 4 TPI, whereas the extra large teeth on the big boy is 5.5

Hey, Thanks for the good info. These silkys look really nice. So I am on their website looking back and forth between the bigboy (extra large coarse: 5.5tpi) and the bigboy (large coarse: 6tpi).

The 6tpi saw has under its description and again under technology has "Mira Me" smooth cutting "technology" and the extra large does not specify the same characteristic.

I am looking to purchase one of these and since I have not used one I am dependent on you good people for advice. I want a saw that is aggressive as possible but also makes a cut that does not need finishing with other hand tools.

It appears that these saws are efficient in cutting all directions in relation to the stick. With enough practice, I think that I would prefer this freedom instead of having to set angles on a circular for compound work.

Which one should I be looking at?

Much thanks.

P.S HUSQY! hehe

This is a good topic. As far as the Lynx saws, don't bother, new English steel is no good. I bought a used Pax saw (same manufacturer as Lynx) at a garage sale for hardly anything and thats all its worth.

Japanese saws are great, but not if you want to sharpen them yourself.

I'd look at getting an old Disston or other antique saw that is straight and has some meat left. Don't worry too much about the teeth pattern, a saw shop can punch out and sharpen them to whatever suits your fancy. More than likely you can find a local saw shop that will do this for you, if not I'd suggest these guys: www.badaxetoolworks.com

If I had the money for a handmade: www.eccentricwoodcraft.com
I tried his rip saw, it was amazing.

That is the ultimate freedom saw, from eccentric. Cool site.

Tim

For me 3-4 TPI is the good stuff...

Though it's a function over form thing. One just has to accept that a shoulder that will never be seen needn't be burnished to some unnecessary level of perfection.

A perfect joint is one that fits well and continues to do so as the timbers it joins seasons.

Words of wisdom to live and work by.