Brad, when I said "free tenon" I mean the same as the "spline" that you have pictured. I agree with the bare metal not being the best solution. A couple lag bolts or timber screws in addition to the free tenon/spline wouldn't hurt.

As far as putting the screws through the post and into the beam at an angle, while better, it is still not as good as toe screwing.

The timberlinx seem like a good idea. I've seen some home-made timber fasteners that look like a super-sized bed bolts. If timberlinx cost $25 you are probably better off purchasing them over building your own, but really they do essentially the same thing as a free tenon/spline, so that's what I'd do.

For the housing (shelf) I'd go at least 3/4" but no need to go more than 1"

http://www.tfguild.org/publications/glossary.pdf

Seeing that timber framing has some terms not often used in conventional construction, this glossary provided by the guild is an excellent resource.

I try to use traditional frame joints when I can in my barn restoration efforts, but I have used a bolt system to tie lean-to additions to TF buildings.



Rooster

Good luck drilling the holes!

This is a bit unrelated but still on topic. Joist hanger have a purpose other than joist. It has been suggested they can be used in old mortices as reenforcement. As in a tie beam with a principle rafter where the quality of the wood at the relish is in question.

I take it that it is not the bare metal which is the problem with the black stain and deterioration of the wood but that the metal has different properties with temperature swings and moisture condenses on it repeatedly over time, rots the wood. For these new fangled coating on fasteners time will tell, we just have not had enough time. So is the coating there to keep the fastener from corroding or the keep the wood from rotting? Will you still get a rotting action around a screw over time, it just will not be black? Hangers are galvanized.

There is a lot of steal use in old timber work, from queen rods to small 3" dogs.

I would not feel comfortable using lags to tie the tie to the post, even toe nailed. 1" at least on the housing. I have seen a heavy 1/4"x3" strap used on top of the tie, say 3'+ long and running through a hole in the post and nutted on the outside face of the post. Weld a rod or black smith a round shaft with threads. Low tech, simple and it addresses the issue.

Tim

The picture of the generic spline in my previous post was from a frame by
Mark Gillis, P.Eng.

Gillis & Company Timber Frames

6240 Summit Street

Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3L 1R7

I was contacted by him and he was not happy I used his photo. I was not trying to claim credit for his work, but merely googled for a photo to illustrate a generic spline joint for information sharing purposes only with the poster. My apologies to Mark Gillis.

wow, sorry to hear that Brad..days must be slow in NS

I must take a momemet and apologize to Timberlinx for using one of their photos posted on their site

IMO, you have nothing to apoligize for, sir

Although it wasn't crystal clear from your post, I don't think anyone would think you were trying to take credit for someone else's work. However, by linking to his picture, you were using his server bandwidth. Mark may have overreacted, but I've met Mark, and he's a good guy. CB.

So I'm interested to find out which solution Barnmover picks...