I really like the Stanley sharptooth saws, but they do tend to bind a little in big fresh pine cuts. I hit a nail with my better saw today, so I got out a new one. Didn't have any set. Cut good for a little bit, but would bind pretty fast. I rummaged around here just now and found an old Disston saw set. I don't know how much set I put in, but it is noticeable now. I only had an old pine 6x6 here, which was outside and wet. It cut straight, and no sign of binding at all. We'll see tomorrow when I get to work and have some fresh white pine to try it on. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

Hi Dave,

I have manually set Stanley Jet Cut / Sharptooth saws by hand using nothing more than a set of pincer type pliers. This does ease the problem of binding in wider / deeper cuts largely because the kerf width has been increased however the effort to make the cut will increase and the accuracy of the cut will decrease.

You could try out using a wall board (gyproc) saw like the Stanley Fat Max which is exactly the same as a jet cut / sharptooth except every 8th tooth is omitted and instead a gullet provided. These saws are not best used to start the cut but once underway it will keep the kerf clearer and hence less binding.

When cutting wet woods above 8" it would be better shifting to a 3 foot peg tooth log saw e.g. as made by Garlick & Son. Check out :-

3 foot log saw

This has the added advantage of having an additional handle that can be set on top of the blade at either end and so can be used either as a one man or two man push / pull saw.

Regards

Ken Hume

This tooth style is designed to be pulled. Stanley has to use a slightly fatter bodied saw to allow it to be pushed, and even then the longer version will buckle under bigger wood. I have started quite a collection of sharpsaws since the geometrical workshop. I can almost imagine the body of the saw buckling within the kerf of a larger timber and adding to the resistance and contributing to the wandering along with the lack of ability of the saw to clear the chips.

I set one once, if I recall it helped a bit but I really like my Docking Saw for larger timber and I can keep the whole saw tuned whereas the Stanley Sharpsaw is not possible with the hardened teeth. I find usually the death of the Sharpsaw is hitting foreign objects and next is use over time and finally pushing it through tough wood will diminish the set quickly, what little set it has, this is especially the case if the teeth are not hardened. Also forcing a saw beyond its designed speed of cutting will take the set away, let the saw do the work. I don't even buy the non hardened toothed version any more.

I do like the Sharpsaw, it gets used where it fits. I have always wanted to try a saw such as that linked by Ken.

One way to reduce the amount of sawing is the French Snap. I had fun this past weekend demonstrating 4 successful cuts, at the local Margaretta Day festival, the line stayed on the piece intended with no additional tearing of fibers.

Tim

This is an excellent discussion, gents.

With a couple of images added, it could form the basis of a fine article in Timber Framing.

Are you game?

Hi Joel,

I will take some photos of the 3ft two handed saw in action tomorrow during our woodland hewathon.

Regards

Ken Hume

I used the saw today. No binding at all, but not very accurate. I'll see if I can adjust the setter down a tad. I don't know where the set went to originally, as this saw did not cut right from the store. I don't know how many chances I'll get with those hardened teeth. They seem to bending close to the body, where it is not induction hardened. Joel, I'll get some close-up shots of the different amounts of set. I'm going to get another new saw and will do some comparisons. I also have a big one man saw around here somewhere, about 3' or so. I'll have to learn how to sharpen it. I have all the tools to do it as well, a couple of vises, a saw jointer, saw sets and files.

I went out and found that big saw. Might actually be a two man, as it's got a helper handle on one end, but I think it could be used by one person no problem. Cuts a fat kerf, over an eighth-inch.

I sharpened that big saw. Cut poorly on a dry 2x6. In studying Leonard Lee's book on sharpening, I think that the raker teeth are set for green wood, as they are much lower than the side-cutting teeth. That would explain the poor cut in dry wood. I'll experiment some more tomorrow. I may have to joint the tops of the side-cutters so that the rakers can do their job. Apparently, I will have to tune the saw to the type of wood I'm going to cut, i.e. green or dry wood, and possibly even hard or soft woods. I may never really need this saw, but it looks like it will be a great adventure to learn how to fully realize it's potential.

Dave, I use Lee's method for sharpening my hand saws. I use a 30 degree angle on the file in both directions (if that makes sense). I have a tendency to over set, at which time I take a light swipe with a stone on the outside of the teeth to shine them and take some set out, or if one side is set more than another. I find this will fine tune the set to what works. You might try this on the over set saw you created, if the stone will cut the hardened teeth? A warning, not your nice water stones, a cheap oil stone with two grits will do just fine.

Tim

Dave,

Get a copy of the Crosscut Saw Manual on the proper way to sharpen that beast....it is available for download form several locations on the net.

B