I'm making a bunch up on my lathe with small diameter pieces of ironwood from my wood pile.

I put on a nice sized "handle" to make them comfortable to grip. They work pretty good so far

Hi Quigley,

Can you post a digi pic please ?

Regards

Ken Hume

Recently, just last Wednesday 6/23/10, I picked up the latest version of the drift pin prototype, model #3.
We tested it Thursday at Heartwood school with Will Beemer and Dave Carlon.
I drove it into a 3/4" hole pulling up a brace and it worked great.
I drove it into a 1" hole pulling up a cross sill to a long sill of the project the timber framing class was test fitting together. And it worked great again.
Each test proved the pin worked great, and was easy to remove.
I don't have a digital picture of this pin, but it is much better and cheaper to make then model #2.

I hope to be offering these for sale shortly.
I want to make up some sample joints and photograph and video the tests so that I can show "how to" use these pins to test fit your frames together.
Once I have some on order, I'll make up a bunch and ship them out and then have some on hand for future sales.

Stay tuned....

Jim Rogers

Sure

Hi Quigley,

How would you extract these after they have been used to "pull up" a joint ?

Regards

Ken Hume

I've used them a few times...just grab the handle an give it a good pull...no problems thus far.

Hi Qugley,

Do I thus assume that you are not doing draw boring i.e. where the tenon peg hole is offset from the mortice holes ?

Regards

Ken Hume

I use a slight offset...I snug the joints up with towing straps and cumalongs (ratchet style)...get it nice and tight and insert the pin to keep everything in place while I finish dry fitting the rest. If the pins are too tight during disassembly, I just reverse the steps to get them out, but for the most part a good yank will do the trick. Thus far it's been working well (nice tight joints)

I don't have metal pins, I use wood pins, the same ones used in the building. If I can, I tap them out from the underside. The drier the better in this case. On occasion I need to use the peg puller, the slide hammer with vice grips attached, for extraction. I find it near impossible to pull drawn bored pegs after they are set, simply by hand. I will use straps and such on some mock ups, just to get things into place, the peg does the final placement and if that doesn't do it nice and easy usually something needs attention.

Tim