Thanks, I will look for it.

I used the big crosscut a little yesterday, it worked well for cutting big timbers. I think with a little practice, I'll be able to cut to the line with it. Many of the big shoulder cuts on the barn I'm working on show that a fine cut saw started the cut, and a much coarser saw finished it. Sometimes, there was some paring going on. I guess if you err to the waste side, you're safe.

Hi Dave,

Your "evidence based" observation is the very kind of confirmation that we need to hear about regarding past practice.

I have found it very difficult to get a large 3 ft peg saw started and have resorted to making an introductory cut using a stanley Jet saw which seems to match your experience.

Regards

Ken Hume

I've had good luck clamping a square edged piece of timber at least 3" thick right on the line and using that as a fence to help start the large saw (one or two man). Of course this only works if your cut line is square as well. otherwise, you'd need to a block with an edge at the appropriate angle to extend the cutline up into space.

The kerf on the Stanley handsaw is about half of the big saw, which means the big saw tends to want to jump around a bit. I'm wondering if, on those old timbers, they kerfed in with the small saw, then chiseled out to the line to give the big saw something to ride against. I'll have to take a look. Some of those shoulders on the anchorbeam tenons are over 20" long, a real pain with a short saw in fresh pine.

At the geometric design workshop, I saw some people cutting to the line with a two man crosscut, but I don't know what method was being used to start the saw. I do recall the cuts came out to the line. Gabel or Tim, or anyone else there, do you remember the process for using that saw?

I'll be playing with the tuning of this big saw over time. I want to find or make a raker gauge and a spider gauge for measuring the set. I think I'd also like to stone the backs of the teeth like Tim mentioned. The saw was originally black, it was rusty so I cleaned it up with a flap wheel on the angle grinder. The teeth aren't pitted, but the saw is still a little rough.

I did not get a chance to see the big cross cut saw in action up close, I was chopping the same cut on another piece at that time. I remember I had a flash of panic at one point while chopping, I almost split one of the little corbels, I checked myself just in time.

I wonder if you clamped or screwed a scrap over the timber and started the saw in that piece, got the teeth into the kerf and just kept going. draw the lines needed, it could be a bit choppy to start and on or off the starting line but with the kerf started by the time you get to the real line you are on track. But it is extra steps. Similar to what Gabel mentioned, you could use to pieces one for each side of the cut with a set of quick clamps it may go fast.

Ever see big timber chopped at the shoulder?

Tim

I haven't noticed axe marks to the shoulder, just chisel marks. Most of the shoulders on this barn are sawn. They are scribed with diminished haunch.

Dave
As noted there is a few resources available to show how to sharpen the big crosscuts. The "one man saws" I have are capable of taking a handle on the other end..
The dry wood will cut harder as the fibers tend to break off as opposed to green or wet tends to shear. The rakers actually are supposed to be shorter than the cutters, and they should be tapped over to get more of an angle...think chisel cutting angle. As with all saws you can set it up for hard, soft or both...or buy another saw so you can have a hard and softwood saw.
Come on up to Taylor Mill in Derry with the saw and I will see if I can help you with it. Saturday the 24 is a cutting day, but at the rate the water is dropping...maybe not.

Bob

Bob

Hi Bob et Al,

I can recommend "Saws and Sawmills for planters and growers" by John Morris MBE. This book was first published by Cranfield Press in 1991. I have John's contact email address for anyone encountering difficulty in buying a copy of this book as he sold me my copy directly from his own private stock.

This book gives full instruction on how to sharpen and set all types of large rip and cross cut saws that employ all the various classic tooth types.

Send me a PM if you need any further help.

Regards

Ken Hume

Disston No.32