Dear Guild,
Proud to say I now have my timberframe, finally!
Doug Fir.
Question is oil?
I have called 10 places and nobody knows of non boiled Linseed oil? Any tips on where I can find it?
From reading a prior post on the subject my understanding is that boiled will take longer to dry? I have at least 2 months before drywall dust is an issue so does it really matter? I would like to get the oil on in 2 days since my wife is due any day now. I was going to go 1 part turpentine to 1 part linseed oil.

Does this method offer the least amount of darkening fo the wood, I want it to stay as close as possible to its current color.

Another question, does the turpentine eventually completely evaporate from the wood? I do not want that smell to linger forever and am a bit concerned about my kids breathing that, but my assumption is that it will eventually evaporate, I live in the dry climate of Southern Colorado so I would think it would dry quick?
Any help would be much appreciated?

Many of us in the TF community are very pleased with the results achieved using LAND ARK finish. It's natural, containing linseed,tung oil, pine rosin, beeswax, and limonene (citrus based solvent). It works very nicely, does not pose health risks, and smells like oranges! It may be more expensive than a home-made recipe but it's well worth it. Good luck in your new home and with your new baby!

Boiled linseed oil is what you want if you want it to dry. Raw linseed oil is the form that doesn't dry.

Linseed oil does tend to turn darker as it ages. If this is a concern use 100% tung oil. It is more expensive, but won't darken in the same manner as tung oil. The odor from your solvent will dissipate in a few days.

Regards,
Dan

a prior series of posts regarding this topic stated the opposite it seems "try to get drywall dust off of boiled linseed oil that has'nt gone off", then explains that the boiled dosn't "go off", I thought that meant it did not dry well, maybe I'm confused on terminology?

ya know I pulled out the print of the post I was referring to and its 6 years old, maybe opinions have changes since then?

My issue is that I at least want to get something on the top and outer sides of the frame this weekend before its enclosed, maybe I'll get the tung oil, slap it on the backside, then order the Land Ark?

So Land Ark does not darken the wood over time like LInseed does then?

This is the prior post I spoke of
posted 03-08-99 03:57 PM ET (US)
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Back to Rudy and Bill's recipe. Why raw linseed oil instead of boiled? I've been using a furniture finish of boiled linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine for a good while, and was a bit surprised at the suggestion to use the raw oil.
Rudy R Christian posted 03-08-99 04:53 PM ET (US)
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A couple of reasons for raw oil.
Boiled oil isn't really boiled oil anymore. It's chemically altered (a sixties thing) with hydrocarbons (I think) to make it "go off". The problem is that unless you add an additional catalyst, like Japan hardener, it goes off extremely slow. This usually leads to the "tacky" condition Ed spoke of. The finish doesn't really soak in, but tends to lay there and coagulate. You want a real mess? Try to clean drywall dust out of a boiled oil finish that hasn't really gone off. Don't go there.

Raw linseed oil, on the other hand, seems to have the ability to migrate into the surface of the wood. By adding turpentine as a vehicle, it soaks in even further. Sawing off a sample of white oak that has been treated with this mixture will show 1/2" or more of penetration. Pretty amazing in my book. Since the oil/turp mix tends to soak in rapidly, the timber is ready to handle much sooner. Unless it's really cold, it should handle fine in a day or two.

The other reason for raw is the "repairability" factor. Boiled oil finishes will not sand well, so it's hard to take out superman footprints that show up a couple days after the raising. Raw oil is very sandable, and actually makes a very suitable base for other finishes (or refinishing) that might be needed say in a bathroom or pool area. Just let in dry, and check for compatabilty.

I have heard some rumors that linseed oil finish will blacken in certain conditions. I have yet to have this happen. We have used it in sunpaces, direct sunlight, bathrooms and kitchens. I suspect this may actually be a mildew condition that does often occur if a frame is paneled in over a fresh slab or foundation.

anyone know where I can find Land Ark oil?

A net search was unsuccessful.

Thanks

Joe Ruzich

Their website is: http://www.universalweb.com/wood/index.html

Thanks a bunch, after reading their site I ordered some, seems like great stuff, cant wait to get it on there!

Following up on something in Rudy's post: The Land Ark is also very repairable. On smooth timbers (S4S) it can be sanded and re-oiled very easily. You can apply a couple of coats and give it a good rub and you'll have a furniture-like finish. As far as darkening goes, all finishes are going to darken over time which has as much to do with the wood as it does the finish.