Do any of you know of any adaptations of the Larsen-Truss method to a timber frame? In particular, what would a sill configuration look like to support the 12" wall thickness extending outside of the frame (all atop a crawlspace stemwall, for instance)?

I'm pretty sure it is, the two layers of OSB on the sips must cut down the noise a bit.
Foam is known for great sound transmission, I hoped 5.5" inches of it wouldn't be as bad..lol
When I spoke to the guys @ CCHRC, they said they put 1/3 of the total R value on the warm side of the REMOTE wall...in Alaska. I think damp sprayed cellulose will be easier to install (no need for insulweb which would be tricky to staple behind the posts/beams and the ability to spray it in all the tight nooks and crannies behind braces, post and beams). I also heard it can be left exposed as final finish. I think with a light layer of some natural covering to blend it with the studs and then painted, it would:
#1) provide a barrier of natural material between our living space and the Polyiso
#2) keep drywall out of most of the house
#3) blend in great with the funky theme of our house

The house is performing great. We've been breaking temp records in the last two weeks with temps dipping down to -40C at night. I am still able to work upstairs in a shirt. There is currently no heat being directed upstairs, the only heat getting up there is from the basement through the cracks in the subfloor...a redneck heated subfloor you might call it..lol The mainfloor still has a lot of undetailed section where we're loosing some of that heat too, so I have a feelin' our 4 cubic foot Hearthstone stove might be a lil' overkill once we're running it next winter...

Frwinks
Any updates on modifying your walls for sound transmission? I'm thinking of following the same path if it looks like it's working out ok. Any thought to having an energy audit on your home? Throwing those results up against a sip house would be very interesting.
Rusty

hey Rusty,
haven't done anything with the walls yet, but I'm sure once the cavities are full of cellulose, covered with earthen plaster and sided on the outside, the problem will go away.
Went through an energy audit a couple of weeks ago, but due to large gaps on one of the walls (one which is getting direct glazed this year) the guy didn't run the blow test. The good news is that the ON gov is paying 100% of our insulation investment
Once the glazing is done, and the house is detailed, we'll run the test and see where we're @ in order to design a properly sized HVAC system.

Here is the roof/wall intersection detail I came up with. Maintaining a good air barrier and "seamless" continuation of the insulation envelope, usually gets tricky here. PERSIST/REMOTE makes it easy to obtain an air tight connection with ZERO thermal bridging.



for a bigger pic click:

Today seems to be, alternative insulation day. Very close to the system I use, for the most part. I am fond of 1-1/2"-2-1/2" planks in place of the 2x studs, as a difference. Rafters vs purlins can cause re arranging of the roof strapping. Wiring, again is a factor, my best solution so far is to wire it to the outside using conduit, within the strapping layer. I am assuming the 2x wall is for wiring purposes only?

Reading other post on other methods, I see a saving in time and material in using this method. Am I mistaken?

A nicely constructed soffit box under the overhang helps with deflection at the eve.