Hello everyone tonight

Just a quick question

As I was growing up working with my father and remembering his construction comments, one that stuck in my mind for all these years I would like to share with you and maybe get some comments

His theory was that laminated carrying beams were stronger than solid ones providing that the materials were selected properly--

What do you well educated and \or well experienced builders out there think of this

NH

when stick framing, we use laminated beams for large spans that wont have the support of a stud wall underneath. These are made of many layers of wood pressed and glued together.

Such laminates are tremendously stronger than a solid piece of wood for a number of reasons, the chief of which is there are many layers of varying grain structure instead of one single grain structure as in a solid timber.

However, it is my personal belief that such have not as long of a lifespan as a solid timber. The glue compounds that hold it together break down over time, and I suspect that after a time of maybe 100 years they will have lost a significant amount of their strength. When building a modern stick frame, this is something of a non-issue as the frame itself will have deteriorated similarly. However, in a timber frame I would say this fact makes the use of laminates something I would avoid.

DLB

Hello everyone tonight

Thanks DL for your input in reference the laminated and glued beams, I have also worked with them from time to time, but I am referring to beams built up with layers of say 2 or 3 inch material--ie a 10"by12" rectangular beam made up from 5--2"by 12" planks nailed together with arddox nails or in one case I had to use hardened steel nails (cement nails), maybe someone would like to comment

NH

Hello everyone tonight

Hi Kimboy

I don't know exactly what you are talking about but thanks for coming on board and offering help

Really I was enquiring about the load carrying characteristics of laminated beams and posts versus solid timber, pretty straight forward I think

I would be glad to have input from anyone no matter where they are from or their background

Thanks again

NH

Hello everyone tonight

I used a double bitted axe for many years in scoring and chopping displays, I always found it well balanced and accurate in the strikes.

I am just wondering if any of you also used or found these axes pleasing to use

NH

I've always been a bit nervous of them, though I haven't ever been able to come up with a logical reason why! I can't recall ever once hitting myself on accident with the pol of a large axe. Now I have done so with smaller axes and hatchets working on joinery, but never with a big one.

That said, I could certainly see some advantages to the tool, always having 2 different striking surfaces suited to different tasks.

However, I am heading somewhat in the opposite direction seeking to acquire an axe with a very narrow bit (2 to 3 inches) for notching.

Myabe, NH, with a little convincing on your part I could be persuaded to try a double bit axe some time...

It interests me the ways people use different tools and methods to accomplish the same task. I think that is a good thing, and am in no way in favor of developing any kind of 'standard' practice for hewing, joint cutting, or whatever else.

DLB

Hey DL -

I've long used a Double-bit as one of my primary axes, an old four pound Plumb, and like you suggest above, I filed one of the edges far thinner than the other for a deeper bite, and left one factory fat for the stems that seem to be grabby and tend to get you stuck.

I use this as my scoring ax when hewing, (but juggle with a 5 lb jersey pattern) and it has over the years made some partners in two-man scoring a "bit" nervous, but have never had any mishaps. It actually makes for less bit damage when an occasional contact between the axes happens.

I bought it because it had plenty of life left, and was obviously good steel. Now I wouldn't want to hew without it, and would recommend one to anybody serious about axe-work.

Hello everyone tonight

Thanks for coming on board with the replies and positive feed back, I also kept one edge filed and maintained for chopping with a thinner blade, a bit flatter on the cutting edge than the other one which I kept rounder for more dangerous and uncertain spots

Nh

Hello Richard, nice to see this topic raised again, I mean the broader topic but also the double bitted axe topic. You make a good point about the particular balance of these symmetrical, straight handled axes. For me, this makes them an easier axe to use. I am using a double bitted axe that I found out in the desert once for hewing, mostly doing the juggling part, now and then for scoring and less frequently for surfacing.

Could you elaborate on the different edge grinds you are using. I am guessing that the thinner edge grind you mention gives you this elliptical or banana shaped bevel. But I mean, when do you use one and not the other, what is the effect, that sort of thing. Just interested in your experience. Thanks.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Hello everyone tonight


Hi Don and other looking in and showing interest in this topic, one of my favorites mext to hand hewing and creating wooden timber frames

Juggling or I refer to as "notching" in preparation for broadaxing is a pretty important function, to do it properly you need a good axe with a thin blade to get good penetration, and you need a fairly flat edge --not too rounded so that as you lay down the last set of scores approx 3 inches apart you are not penetrating unnecessarily deep into the underlying layers that make up the surface of the hewn timber.

The other blade can be more rounded, and used for clearing an area around a standing tree in preparation for felling with the two man crosscut saw--(pre chain saw era)--or chain saw--around these parts 1950's

I hope this helps explain my axe style and reasoning, besides that it is the way I was taught by my father--Ross, and his father Robert-- before him

The best of the day to you all and enjoy your time to the fullest
because time has an awful habit of speeding up after 40

NH