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 Re: Pegs Too Big
#27095
09/03/11 10:32 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 235
Thane O'Dell
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Find a local machine shop and have them drill and ream a 3/4" hole through a 1/4" thick piece of steel. Fasten this plate to a stump with a hole through it. This is a Die. Now just drive your pegs through this die. All my pegs are finished in this manner.
Life is short so put your heart into something that will last a long time.
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27100
09/04/11 04:51 PM
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,687
Jim Rogers
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We've always made our pegs by taking straight grained boards and ripping them into squares just a 1/16 of an inch larger then the finished peg size. Then shaving off the corners until it fits through the test hole, in the seat of the shaving horse.
We never wet our pegs, again.
When the dry peg is driven into a wet timber frame the peg draws some moisture into it from the frame and swells up a bit to make it a tight fit. This is why when we test fit things using these pegs we never drive them in a lot, as we're going to drive them out again to dis-assemble.
Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27180
09/10/11 10:29 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 6
Simon Says
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I understand that the primary peg turning business makes different sized pegs for imperial sizes and for the Owl Bit holes, which are graded in imperial but manufactured in metric, so they are actually a 32nd or 16th off. Is it possible you have an order of pegs designed to fit the Owl Bit 3/4 approximation?
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27219
09/15/11 04:08 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7
eric sammons
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I tend to use dry split hickory driven through a plate to make my pegs. Riven pegs follow the grain and tend to bind better when set, using dry materials ensures the peg won't loosen when it does dry out.
Don't say I can't hack it!
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27328
10/04/11 09:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Posts: 850 |
Howdy,
Thought I'd follow up. Eric that is an interesting post, which brings up the question: If the timber is green and your pegs have moisture when they both dry, whats the result? Me thinks that they will only get tighter with all the wood movement.
Tried the microwave: DO NOT ATTEMPT! Hehehe.
Solution: Take block plane and go to town. About 15 seconds per with a sharp blade. As far as grain, if your iron is sharp enough and your depth is small enough, and your hand is quick enough, no problems. And if it tears a little so be it, its still doing its job.
P.S. Anybody want to see some pictures? Its a nice frame.
Last edited by mo; 10/04/11 09:02 PM.
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27330
10/05/11 12:45 AM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Dave Shepard
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Member, Timber Framers Guild
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27331
10/05/11 02:19 AM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 946
D L Bahler
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Mo, isn't the answer to a question like that obvious? Pics, please! It's always a pleasure to see other folks' work
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Re: Pegs Too Big
[Re: D L Bahler]
#27332
10/05/11 02:56 AM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Re: Pegs Too Big
[Re: mo]
#27333
10/05/11 02:57 AM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
mo
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Re: Pegs Too Big
#27334
10/05/11 03:28 AM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 946
D L Bahler
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Mo, that's great work. What did you use to treat your timbers? I am a big fan of curved, profiled, or otherwise decorated struts and braces, so this is right up my ally! This makes me think of this (look at the bracing): 
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