I have no doubt that power tools rule the profit oriented world. Everyone has a comfort zone. Why stop at hand held power tools? Go for the big times, CNC machines, full on shop with a 20 man crew, if profit is the reason.

For sure "that" post was pure opinion. With no exaggeration, and into the 1000s of mortices with the same boring machine or two, I can attest it is no hobby. I do enjoy the work. I can almost say the machines have not had to be sent out for maintenance or sharpening and keeps on producing and will into the unseen future. I once had a small, local machine shop work on a gear change on one machine. I also recently dropped one and broke the hand crank, I put off fixing it for a while, then fixed it in less than half an hour. Good as new. I would come near tears if the Mafell should befall the same fate.

As for efficiency and the hand crank machines, there are many things one can practice to enhance its abilities. A foot stool is a simple addition, something to stand on while straddling the timber and repositioning to the next hole. Knowing what bit size/mortice is really needed for the joinery at hand. A machine with the proper gear ratio and a bit with the correct feed screw will make a difficult job, simple. You learn to place your joints in clear wood whenever possible. Frozen wood you predrill pilot holes, 1/8" with a cordless drill, making bit location a given. Know the boundaries, what is acceptable and when you have over bored in a spot. I do most of the grunt work! But not without a little forethought.

One of my most memorable times spent with a Makita was how my lower back felt after just a few mortices, something I don't experience with my hand cranked machine. Mostly contributed to my lack of knowledge of how to properly handle it, I think.

Cleaning out the round holes is another aspect to consider. This can be easily made simple and efficient with the right approach. It is not done solely with a chisel. I have taken the shovel approach, lately. I will leave it at that. I will add I am thinking of adding a long handle to my corner chisel and some foot pegs to stand/jump on......

I can't wait to see that.....on youtube......

Tim,
There is a difference to maximizing prophets, and maximizing efficiency with what resources you have.

You maximize profits by making your company big. If you want to net 75000 a year or more, then you might consider heading a big time operation.

But if you just prefer to be small, and are content to not get rich, then you stick with a smaller crew, like 3 or 4 guys.

With a smaller crew, it is still very important to consider the costs of every aspect of your operation, and minimize your overhead expenses. This maximizes the profits you can make. With a small business, it is still very much the case in this modernized world that by being willing to lay aside conveniences and do a little more work, you can put more money in your pocket.

So what I am saying is that every individual small timber framer should really set back and analyze his operations. Sit down and crunch some numbers, and see what tools are actually worth having. I think a lot of you would be really surprised if you did this to learn which of your conveniences are actually costing you money.

These expenses include the initial purchase cost, spread out over a number of years. Maintenance, replacement parts (like blades, belts, etc.) the time to run them, setup time, pack up time, the extra effort of cleaning up sawdust that flies hin and yon compared to shavings or chips that fall right down. The electricity to run them. The insurance policies in case they get stolen, All of these and more are factors.

Then compare that to the costs involved with hand tools, which is a whole lot smaller of a list. Purchase cost, maintenance, time to cut a joint, and a few others.

It might take a little bit more time to cut a joint, but that doesnt really mean that it is costing you more money once you account for everything.

I have both a boring machine and a chain mortiser. I fully competent and efficient with a chain mortiser. I would like to be able to say the same with a boring machine. Things like drilling a hole before starting in frozen wood, and what the best screw is for different woods are things I need to learn. The thirst for that knowledge is why I participate in these forums. It is also why I should participate in guild events.

I would like to one day cut frames as efficiently with hand tools as I can with power tools. It is a better way to live.

The choosing of which tools are the most cost effective is also an issue with hand tools as well as power tools. For those of you that use axes, what styles and shapes do you find most useful and for what joints?

Leslie, I use an axe on all joints with the exception of non-housed stuff, as in scribed mortices. I have for the first time in over 15 years cut a bunch of 3" wide mortices, I used an axe chop the excess off one side in the mortice. 1-1/2" x 2 at the ends and a 2" down the length.

I run some flip video today, nothing up loaded, yet. My corner chisel worked to a point, I snapped the long handle off which ended the experiment. It was only a 7/8" square stock rounded and stuck into the socket. It was like a fishing rod, almost. It need to be at least 5/4", I am going to try again. I must say it did work but not as well as I had wished. Trial and error, it needs more trial.

7 hours today, some fooling with the video, verbal banter, the usual, 22 mortices with housings, Brace pockets, 16- 2" x 10.5" x 4.5"deep. Post mortice, 6- 3" x 10" x 6.5" deep, these are not fully done an hour tomorrow will finish them up. Labor force, two and a half men, like the tv show. Some number for the accountant, DL.

Everyone, thank you so much for the information you have provided. It is very helpful.

Could I ask you to address the subject of the species of timbers that you work with? As I stated in my initial question I intend to be using red and white oak mostly. Do your tool selections change when cutting mortises in those woods?

I work mostly soft woods, pine being the easiest to work. Spruce is one of the toughest, cedar not far behind, larch is hard and pitchy it gums up the saw teeth. All woods have their own characteristics, from smell to workability. All work harder when dry, I work them green.

From what little work I have done with red oak, I would say it is fine to work with hand tools. Mortice size is reduced for the most part to 1-1/2". No question it is harder to work but in comparison to spruce in some part it is easier. Spruce and cedar are similar in that they are like a sponge, your tools edge need to be dropped down to 25 degrees or so. When paring the end grain it has a tendency to give way instead of being shaved, you won't see this in hard woods, unless it is dry. Knots in any wood are a bugger, try to avoid them.

Tool selection is a personal choice, not right or wrong. From my perspective if you start out with hand tools, they will teach you far more than a power tool. If you can work wood with hand tool then move onto power tool you will gain an understanding unattainable with the power tool, giving an advantage in uncounted ways.

I've worked with Pine, Spruce, Hemlock, Red & White Oak, Hickory, Black Cherry, Black Birch & Red Maple. I use old hand cranked boring machines, a Millers Falls for the mortices and a Boss for the peg holes.
I honestly couldn't imagine a Hole Hawg doing the job as well or any faster.

I don't like the flying sawdust from a Makita mortiser. Somehow always ends up in my eye, and all over my clothes, in my pockets etc. I also get annoyed with cords run all over, especially when I want to sweep(if in shop). I like the old boring machines(though I have not tried to work at a production rate, only at my pace/leisure). Dry white oak is harder to bore than green white pine, but as has been said, you can make up for that with a correct gear ratio on your boring machine, and a sharp bit makes a big difference. The charactersitics of drilling/boring, and sawing and parring, don't all get harder or easier in a given type of wood. Sawing in a dry hardwood may be easier than green, while the parring may be harder(like on a tenon). They are different types of cutting. There aren't any that can't be worked. If your client want's reclaimed dry oak, you can give them that, it may be a little bit more work, but so? If you are trying to provide quantity, sure green white pine is probably easiest. I'm going to build my own frame from dry hardwood timbers. For me, the finished product from these old growth timbers will be worth it. I'm also going to spend extra time on the finsh.
I would suggest that you not be daunted by the material you choose, it's all workable. Unless you're very out of shape, I would also recommend you get a boring machine to try(Jim Rogers can hook you up with a good one). We tend to prefer Millers Falls or Boss machines. I started out with a snell. It's useable, but do prefer the aforementioned as they are a little bit more rigid. You can always sell it later if you want to. They don't tend to lose value as much as a power tool. Keep is oiled and make sure you don't have too much slop in the gears or bearings... they've lasted 100+ years already...

has any body every used or seen a twillbill(sp?) in use to make a mortise