Ken, the examples you mention (all quite rare in traditional American timber work) may well call for center lines, but in most historic square rule applications a center line was not used.

This is what I have seen on old timbers where the lines were still as well as visible. My experience backs up this as I have found that lines which correspond to the tenon/mortise offset (usually 1.5" or 2") saves work by delineating one edge of the joinery.

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses. I ended up snapping two lines on every face that represented where the the distance from the edge that the joinery was spaced to (2") and then the housing (7"). Very easy to do, and very effective.

Now Im on to that curved piece I was telling you all about. Its a tie beam, that spans 14', with a thru tenon on either end that joins it into the posts, and with brace pockets spaced 3' from the shoulders. My plan in to snap lines representing the edge of the thru tenons from the outside face again (2"), and then snap lines defining the top and bottom of the thru tenon. These lines representing the top and bottom of the thru tenon will also show me where the top and bottom edges would be on my theoretical straight inner timber. Since the braces are already cut, and their pockets in the posts, my main concern is that 3' from either shoulder, I need my snapped line to still be on the timber (since the piece is curved, the timber will lose the line in places). If I lose the line at those brace locations, then the pocket I cut for them will be smaller (shallower) than what they need. I also need to make sure that this is true on both sides of the timber, even though the brace is hugged to the outside edge because if I lose more of the line on the inside edge at the brace pocket location, then there would be little meat for the brace peg to come out through. Hope that all makes since.

I write this all in case any of you out there can anticipate any mistakes before they happen in reality. Or in case any of you have any suggestions.

Now, what about snapping lines on curved edges, both convex and concave?

Dan

Dan, snap another line up from the bottom tenon line, so it lays on the timber just beyond where the brace locates. I usually use some random even number, no fractions. What ever it is remember it well. This number you will use to locate the brace on the post, in adjustment to the 36" you are using as the brace leg. It wants to just skim the wane, as it is the housing for the brace.

Now for the post, if you are using 9x9 post and housing to 8". Hold 8" on the shoulder line on the tie beam and mark 36", this is the far end of the brace pocket. Use the reference face as the best face and lay the pocket out on the live edge, no snap lines on this face. Assuming it is a best face and not twisted badly.

Does this fit into what you are doing?

The peg will enter the sawn surface on the ref. face, I care not if it exits in the live edge as it exits the far, dark side.

Thank you TIMBEAL.

I partially understand. I do not understand the random number part. The brace pocket is already cut on the post. My idea is cut joinery in the curved tie that aligns with the already cut, square rule, non-scribe joinery in its adjacent timbers. I dont understand the random number part, that you use to align the brace to the post. Dont I already know that the brace pocket on the post is 36" down from the shoulder?

Thanks,
Dan

Hi Dan, Now that you have cut the brace pocket on the post before you made the pocket on the tie..... that is an inside curve at knee level or just below. Baseball pun.

I called it random because I don't know how much curve your tie has, and as such, it would be random, I think. In other words what ever number the stick dictates you will use. I try to stick to whole numbers, with out fractions.

I always cut the pocket on the tie first as this will determine where/what the brace location on the post will be. So you can square rule and have all the same length braces.

The number of inches above the bottom snapped line, gaining a third line will determine how many inches off the post brace will be from the 36 inches. As an example if the third snapped line corresponding to the brace location on the tie is 2" up from the bottom line then the post brace mortice will need to be dropped up to 34" instead of the 36".

Now, if you have a 36" leg on the post(now cut) and the difference is 2" on the tie you have to make a brace for a 38" leg, a brace 53-3/4" long. And your brace on the tie gets bumped out to 38", too. The normal brace length for 36" legs comes in at 50-15/16", have you cut all your braces yet? You may need to cut a couple more, if so.

A drawing would make it clearer than my words for sure. Draw it out full scale on the shop floor and see what happens. Then return to the sticks and see how it all relates.