Has anybody had any experience installing 3x6 double t&g DF roof decking? I'm hearing it's quite the job as it requires 8" spikes every 30" horizontally through one board into the one behind it as well as 4" nails diagonally thru the top tongue and one straight in at the back. I have a job with 2200 sq/ft to cover. Any hints? Thanks

No experience, but it sounds like it should keep you in shape. Maybe pre-drill the horizontals on the ground. They do make nail guns for monster nails--I think duofast makes one. But I'd see if you could toe screw boards down with GRKs or something. I use these suckers all time for flooring:
http://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-BJ11-Bowjak-Board-Straightener/dp/B000CER1ME
But if you're boards are wonky it's gonna be near impossible. And I'd plan on moving fast because if the boards get wet, they're gonna do weird things. Maybe tarp it at night. Any chance you could use 1x or 2x T&G with 1.125 plywood over it?

I've done 2x6 single?(I don't remember) t&g decking but not 3x6 double T&G. It sounds like the 8" spikes are to hold the boards to each other nail these in first. If you can find some GRK's missing the screw portion where it would be in the top board I would be tempted to try them instead of the 8# spikes. It depends on whether you have blacksmith arms. Then I'd toenail to the rafters followed by your nail through the back. Drilling the first piece for your 8" is also a good option. You can get some really nice 1/4" auger bits. We found it good to sit on the rafters with your feet and weight on the 2x6 we were installing to force it into place(or hang off it with your weight on your non nailing hand). Clamps like the one timberwrestler linked might be handy I've done similar with my nail bar. Decking the roof is often my favourite part of the frame.

Ray,

Its a bit of work, as you can imagine. Material handling is one aspect, as well as all the fastening required.

Are all your seams breaking over timbers? In some cases 3x can be laid up with staggered seams 'in the air' and not over a structural member. This requires special care in square cutting, the ends, and making sure your layout is done per the engieering specs, etc.

I have a vague notion of being able to get the material pre-drilled. You might want to check in with the mill.

My guess, easily 3x-4x the labor of putting down 2x.

Thanks for the response guys. The 3x6 is required to meet fire code regs because, I assume, it's a commercial spot. Don't know if it's required for residential. The 4x12 rafters are 4'O.C. so there will be some mid span butting, allowed provided there is two continuous runs between butts. 6:12 pitch. I'm trying hard to farm this job out. Any takers? Cash on the barrel.
What do those GRKs run you Brad?

Ray, yes, often in commercial for fire code you can use 'heavy timber' as a classification, build to certain guidelines and use 3x decking.

Even if I could work north of the border, I wouldn't have the muscle or mindset to take this on. You get soft pushing pixels all day.

No local carpentry crew you can sub? Or even some hired labor you can supervise?

Just a question, do you have to use spikes, or can you use TimberLOC screws? Installation might be easier(and removeable if needed)?

4" nails or screws are fine. 8" spikes horizontally. These boards will never be removed. Lots of stuff going on top (by others)till you reach the roofing steel.
Im sure you would do just fine with a hammer Mike. Thanks for considering. I have a couple of roofing guys I'm talking with so I may get out of it yet. Hopefully it stays mild and the snow holds off.

The nice thing about moving to screws is that you gain a bit of leverage to pull things tight... especially if you get any warp or twist in the boards.

Good point