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VAPOR BARRIER #2780 08/28/06 07:46 PM
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Bill Jensen Offline OP
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Hello,
I had a small cabin shell built (600 sq ft )and I am finishing the inside. We are using 1" X 6" T&G
Pine for all the Walls & Vaulted Ceiling. Per code, the county says I do not need to put up sheetrock as long as I have a Vapor barrier over the insulation. The exterior walls are manufc. wood ( Hardie Plank ) under that Tyvek, after that the insulation, and then the 4 mil plastic vapor barrier. Cabin is located in the Olympic Mtns, Wa. Temp. ranges between 20 - 90 degrees all year. Cabin will only be used part-time in Winter. I've been told I will have Puddling on the floor at the bottom of my walls if I put up a Vapor Barrier. Is this true.?........Thankyou.

Re: VAPOR BARRIER #2781 08/30/06 04:24 AM
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Emmett C Greenleaf Offline
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Bill,
There are numerous articles on vapor barriers here on the website. Do a google search.
Briefly, the vapor barrier is to stop moisture from migrating thru the wall. With the tyvek on the outside and the plastic on the inside you have isolated the wall structure. Puddlin on the floor would result when the interior air is high in moisture and the temperature falls below the dewpoint as this water has no place else to go.
Keep your humidity low, use a dehumidifier when you are heating the interior and you avoid the problem.
deralte

Re: VAPOR BARRIER #2782 08/31/06 01:57 AM
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Housewright Offline
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To me it seems likely to have moisture problems in a seasonal building in an area which has rainforest. Not just puddling but mold and mildew.

It is hard to predict how to handle the issue. I recommend seeking advice locally. If the locals think there will be a problem and there is electricity on site, a dehumidifier hooked up to a garden hose drain may give you peace of mind.

Enjoy!
Jim


The closer you look the more you see.
"Heavy timber framing is not a lost art" Fred Hodgson, 1909
Re: VAPOR BARRIER #2783 09/11/06 11:28 PM
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J. ODonnell Offline
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I have done extensive research on vapor barriers and different types of insulation. Whether you need a vapor barrier or not, in my mind, depends on the type of insulation.

Closed cell foam is probably your best option, in which case you wouldn't need a vapor barrier, but it's expensive. Dense packed cellulose (Nuwool, Applegate,or Zerodraft) is the next best option. Applegate insulation has a lot of helpful things on their website ("How to properly insulate a cathedral ceiling"). I recommend looking there. Lastly, if you have fiberglass insulation.......... you're doomed. Air molecules naturally travel from a warm to cool space. You can't stop it, and when that happens in a wall cavity, condensation occurs. If you can slow down or stop the air movement you drastically improve your insulating value and chance of condensation occuring (foam or cellulose). However, if you had a tight building like this you'd need an air to air heat exchanger, otherwise you'd be trapping moisture and stale air inside. My point is that air can easily pass through fiberglass insulation, and no matter how good of a job you do with plastic inside or tyvek outside, there will be pressure differentials in the house and air will pass through, normally around outlets, light fixtures or other places like these.

I'm building a new home now and I'm using dense packed cellulose in the walls and rafters, no vapor barriers, and an air to air heat exchanger. Hope this helps.


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