OK. I'm new to TFRubies (and toying with the idea of buying the book... I just try to avoid having stuff shipped from the US to Europe, especially paper!) and while it's mostly making sense and working out, my first attempt at a scarf joint is failing quite spectacularly. I've put a copy on one of my many sites

(http://hoovesofdestiny.co.uk/Beam-200x250.skp)

I'm fairly sure that I've done everything right. Right clicking on the joint part lists it as "TF ID: Joint", but it doesn't appear to be cutting completely as you can see if you put it up against another copy of itself.

Any suggestions? Do I need to make a "shoulder" for the joint in order for it to be complete?

Thanks in advance for any help provided. I'm looking forward to transferring my design from AC3D (which was OK for visualising it, but rubbish for problem-solving).

I was also trying to figure out this problem months ago, but I gave up. So I just drew both ends separately.

It works perfect like this of course but that doesn't help.

Not sure what a scarf joInt ruby gets you. Typically a scarf is the same on both halves. I've never tried to use a Ruby for a scarf - just draw the 2 timbers with the ends like you need to mate up and do a shop drawing. Better still to do a single component with just the lines and indication of where the scarf should be.

Granted. It's more a case of, if your using a tool to do the joint drawing for you, might as well have it do all of it, not just a bit.

I'll draw them manually then. :-)

You could use long timber that don't require scarves;-) just another jewel I use to avoid sk.

Mike's right - the purpose of the TF Rubies is to automatically create mortises from the tenons you draw. Most scarf joints don't have M&T. But here's an example where the tenon has been split into two "joints", each cutting a thru-mortise in one blade of the scarf:


There are, however, circumstances where the tf rubies can help with non-M&T joints. In this key-lam example, each of the canted keys is actually a pair of "joints' that cut the triangular shaped notch in one of the beams. So if you move the keys around, the notches will follow:

Mmmm... 14m long douglas fir beams. I think the sawmill owner would have an aneurism if I asked for that! :-)



Thanks. I'll just run them manually. It never really occurred to me that it wouldn't be possible and/or as simple as doing the M&T joints. It just means a few more joints to cut in SU.

Thanks all for your help. After a week of banging my head I was beginning to think I was just doing something stupid. And it seems that I was! :-)

Mmmm... 14m long douglas fir beams. I think the sawmill owner would have an aneurism if I asked for that! :-)

Living on the east coast of the US with small trees, in comparison to the west coast and its doug fir, it is very possible to find 46' timber, this sawmill owner would find it a great pleasure to saw such plates. Just running it up the flag pole as a possibility. Perhaps in your part of the world this is not an option. Scarves are something to avoid, if possible. Sorry, for running on.

Here in France, I'm pretty certain that it's not going to happen. Traditional timber framing here is short-span with lots of studs, and it's very common for wall plates to be scarved given that they are exceptionally well supported. I do understand about avoiding scarves where possible, but (as long as my maths is right) they are so heavily over-engineered, that the loss of bending strength simply isn't an issue.

In reality, I don't have the option to work with full-length beams even if I could get them. The site is such that moving them would be a nightmare, and crane access isn't an option so getting them up to roof height would be exciting.

A long timber and a well worked horse, nicely done. And in France? Your part of the woods Jon?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAS0AxwpzfQ&feature=related