For many years I’ve wanted an easy to use depth stop for my Swan boring machine. Recently a fellow timber framer, Brian Weekley showed me a picture of the one he made for himself.
I ran with his idea, and created this easy to use dept stop for Swan and Snell boring machine. It maybe able to be used on other track boring machines as well.



And here is it on my machine:



I have tested this with my own Swan boring machine and it works very well.

The cost for this NEW depth stop is only $7.64 plus shipping and handling of $3.45 to most USA locations. (For out of country shipping please request a quote).
To purchase a NEW depth stop, just email me at jrsawmill(at)verizon(dot)net

Jim Rogers

Hi Jim, I have used a set of rafter nuts as a stop, also the smallest Vice Grip clamped on, and fabricated one specifically for the Boss. When transporting the machine I move the stop up so the head does not inadvertently fall. I have noticed the rafter nuts may move it tough wood. The VG's not so much and the custom one on the boss works great where the set screw locates into divots. To use a boring machine without stops is an exercise in futility.

I have scribe marks for different depths to place the stops. Changing bits will cause the location to be off. So I end up checking with the tape measure to be sure, by drilling the feed screw into the wood just 'till the cutters contact the surface and set the stop the desired space from the head.

When I set my depth stop, I slide the boring machine over so that the threaded lead screw tip is just off to the side of my timber.



And the flat bottom of the bit is sitting down onto the surface of the timber. I call this my zero location.



And then I can measure from the bottom of the sliding carriage to the dept stop to set my mortise depth:



What I have seen a lot of beginners to timber framing do is to forget to add the housing depth to the mortise dept and set their depth stop too short. And that can be a pain later on when you have to chisel it out deeper.

As they say, don't ask me how I know.

I like to use this folding ruler to do it as it is easier for me than a tape but sometimes I do use a tape.

Yes, Tim, when you change bits sometimes you don't get the same bit chucked up at the same elevation and this can make permanent dept stop locations a pain. You really need a movable depth stop that is easy to use.

One thing Tom from Vintage tools has mentioned to me is to look at your bit, and see if there is a common spot where your chuck's set screw makes a mark. If there is one common spot you could drill a small dimple into the flat for the set screw to always fall into when chucking it up. This would help you to always chuck it at the same elevation and that may make using a depth stop easier.

I haven't tried it on any of my bits. And some bits I've seen have a dimple in the flat area already.

Thanks for sharing your comments.

I think a good depth stop is a must.

Jim Rogers

I have also pushed the machine to the side of the timber as you show. That method usually puts me on edge as well. I fumble for measuring instruments and such while balancing the machine on the precipice in hopes it does not fall. So I migrated to starting the bit in the actual mortice and then contacting the cutters to the timber surface, whereupon I set it to the depth desired.

Just a few week ago I bored a few mortices to the wrong depth, I missed the housing depth. Beginners are not alone. At least I found it before raising.

Yea, I know it's a balancing act to get it right. But if you plan ahead and have everything within your reach it can be done pretty quickly.

Jim Rogers