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Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28515 04/19/12 11:07 AM
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Stuart Offline
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This is my latest aquisition:

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-04-18174000.jpg

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-04-18173941.jpg

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-04-18174033.jpg

I'm not sure whether I want to restore this one or not. The second pic is of the back and you can see a polished band running the length of the cutting edge. The person I got this off has done that with some sort of sander and it now means that the back is not flat. They have effectively given this axe two bevels instead of one. There are a few chips in the blade which when I take them out will reduce the back bevel but it will still leave too much for the back to be flat. I got a carpenters hatchet from the same person and it took a good 2 hours working carefully with the belt sander to flatten the back so I could do the same thing for this axe. The only problem is that the back bevel is worse or this one and it is a lot larger than the carpenters hatchet. 5 times as long a cutting edge.

I've got some more coming so I think I'll on sell this one to someone who just wants it to hang on the wall. It is a real pitty because it is basically in top condition being free of any pitting. If the previous owner hadn't mistakenly "restored" it it would definitely have been a keeper.

Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28518 04/19/12 01:17 PM
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D L Bahler Offline
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I can't tell from the pictures how much, but if the rounding of the back side is not overly large then it will still work fine. A lot of them tend to get that way over time any way.

A goosewing can still work with a slightly rounded back -less than 1/16" or maybe 3/32" I'd say.

What I would recommend if you wished to restore it to working condition is to take a slow belt sander with fine paper and sand on the flat side, essentially establishing a bevel on this side about 2 or 3 inches wide.

Goosewing axes typically do not have the slight curvature to the bit like broad axes have, so some times they even have a very slight rounding of the flat side on purpose, if used by someone used to broad axes.


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Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: D L Bahler] #28519 04/19/12 01:33 PM
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Stuart, I was looking through your posts. Here's a little information about some Central European axe tradition.

This tradition is, as best as I can tell, spread by German-speaking people, such as the Bavarians, Austrians, Swiss, etc. Names seem to reflect this.

There are many variations of this, but here is more or less how the hewing technique works:

You start off with a narrow-bitted axe on a long handle. A narrow bit allows you to make very steep shouldered notches, so it makes quick work of the notching.

After notching you use this narrow axe to split away the waste.

Then you take a broad axe with a very long handle and get the surface down to its dimensions. You could also use this axe to remove the waste instead of the narrow axe, but it is heavy so I do not like to swing it that much.

Then you take the goosewing with the short handle and clean up the face, making it very smooth. Here you are removing very little material.

If you pay attention to the waste on the ground, you can see just what is removed at each step.

Last edited by D L Bahler; 04/19/12 01:34 PM.

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Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: D L Bahler] #28524 04/19/12 09:29 PM
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Stuart,

I wouldn't worry about it. It'll hew just fine, you just have to get used to the axe. If it was perfectly flat, it would have a tendency to dig. It's like having a chisel or slick that has a curved back. Only the modern chisels, slicks, and axes have perfectly flat backs for the whole length. It works either way, it just takes a few minutes to get the feel of each tool. And as long as there are two planes cleanly meeting, the edge will be sharp. It looks like a nice axe. If you don't like the curve, let me know, maybe I'll take it off your hands.

Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: D L Bahler] #28525 04/19/12 10:06 PM
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Stuart Offline
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Thanks for that D

I've got a selection of felling axes for scoring the logs havn't and one axe that is very similar to the one in your first photo. The handle I've made for it is a bit short so I'll be fixing that.

I've got a japanese broad axe for roughing which is amazing but the handle is too short. I've got a number of axes suitable as roughing axes on their way to me but I doubt any will beat the Japanese axe. That may mean that at least one gets used since the Japanese axe is so good.

Also on its way to me is an Austrian finishing axe with a cutting edge of around 500mm. Should be here any day.

Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28527 04/19/12 10:31 PM
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I've been collecting my tools for a while now and almost have enough to start my first real project which is a cider press. Havn't decided the style I'll do yet but if people are interested they can check out this thread:

http://forums.tfguild.net/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showthreaded&Number=28526&#Post28526

I'm still having issues with the engineering. From my calcs the timbers need to be huge to get the pressures I want. So either I won't get the pressures that I want or I'll need really huge timbers or someone who actually knows what they are doing will show me where I'm going wrong.

Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28528 04/20/12 12:27 AM
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D L Bahler Offline
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Think of your press beam as a class II lever. One end is stationary and that's your fulcrum, and your point of pressure instead of being at the other end is somewhere in the middle, the closer to the fulcrum you put it the more mechanical advantage you get.

So if you have your pressure in the middle, you have a mechanical advantage that yields a pressing force equal to 2x the weight of your beam. If you have your pressure 1/3 of the way from the fulcrum to the far end, you will have a pressure equal to 3 times the weight of the beam, and so on.

But really in the end, you still need to have a very big timber to achieve a good pressure and get your pulp good and dry.


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Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: D L Bahler] #28529 04/20/12 01:26 AM
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I'd love to continue the press discussion but for those interested in the axes rather than the press I'll reply in the press thread.

Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28531 04/20/12 01:36 AM
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Re: Are old broad axes worth buying or not? [Re: Stuart] #28533 04/20/12 03:09 AM
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D L Bahler Offline
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depending on how old it is, the body may not be steel at all, but plain iron. But yes, that looks like a weld line to me.

That bevel I'd say is none too serious. The axe should work fine. The biggest thing is that you will wind up with a slightly wavy surface instead of the flat smooth surface that a straight goosewing would yield.


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