I'm bout to have some 10 X 12 X 26 footers hit the floor.

Well, these are little too much for the ole put your shoulders into to it to flip. Especially when on its 12" face.

I've seen the plywood wrenches where I am leaning to making, but figured I'd ask to see what other people have come up with to turn the big sticks.

I see myself crawling around and over to lay these out.

Hi Mo,

They (wooden "Beam Wrench")work really well, but often a stout 3' or 4' pipe clamp will work just as well. You can use a 2x4 and a loop of rope as also.

Regards,

Jay

Hey Jay,

Thanks. Haven't thought about a loop and stick before. Seems it might crash once it meets the tipping point though. I guess I'll go with the beam wrench. Gotta make sure to get the shoulder out of the way!

By the way. Love your scribed footer. Very nice sir.

I use a 6' piece of 3"x4" with an 8' sling. I put both eyes over the end of the 3x4 and wrap the extra over the top of the timber and catch it on the other end of the lever. Works great. I've used it on timbers a big as 10"x17"x47'. I will see if I can get a picture loaded later.

I use my cant hook on the end I plan to cut off or on an outside face. I also use clamps to turn if I don't have a place to put my cant hook.

Dave S's description was perfect...that is just about what I do when I use a "sling stick," or "sling cant," as I was taught they were called.

Clamps are ideal. Why? They are affordable and readily available. Plus they can be used for numerous other task in addition to rolling timbers. It's like they are paying for themselves many times over... I've used a certain clamp for this size timber. It was a bar reaching in length of four feet plus. It has a deep throat with a mechanical leveraged plunger for a more powerful clamp. Two of these clamps with two people (one one the lifting side and one one the receiving side) make for a dream rolling timber of this size. Hope this helps.

I have a modified set of heavy bar clamps (not pipe clamps). I welded extra long jaws on them, with a detachable handle extension. They work well for turning timbers. The main reason I made them was to be able to tweak timbers during raisings if they have twisted a bit. They are handy!

Hello,

You could do it with a picaroon!

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Hi Don,

I don't think, after finish work has started, you could get a picaroon to turn a 200 mm x 300 mm x 4800 mm oak beam effectively or without marring the surface.

Regards,

Jay

Yep. So what.

So how is a picaroon germane to turning timber over timbers in a beam shop. I was just wondering if I didn't understand your statement. Picaroons are not a timber framing tool as much as a logging and milling tool, as each time you strike with one to "bite" the log or timber, it marks it considerably. This would not work in any timber framing shop I know of.

Regards,

Jay

Maybe it's time for a shift then.
Personally, any evidence of honest and true work left behind from the process doesn't bother me at all.

Hi Jay, I assume you are referencing modern shops. If I am not mistaken there are pick pole divots exposed on older frames, from raising. I am not sure how one would use a picaroon to roll timber. I use my cant hooks for turning timber, digs will show. I also have dirt smug, tire tracks, foot prints, mud, blood and things I can't explain on some finished frames. And heaven forbid the timber should check. Just saying there are a lot of ways to embellish a finished frame, it is part of the art.

I love this stuff... We managed once to have a perfect set of kitty tracks that looked like they had stepped in the ink pot, going down the side of a main beam. When every thing got clean up and oiled we left them...it was beautiful, and speaks to the reality of a hand cut frame.

I use a cank hook for turning also, if it is one of those planed and highly finished frames, I will use a pad or beam wrench. Picaroons are, as stated before for milling and logging, they aren't a timber framing tool in general and are for dragging and sorting a lot of stock as it is coming off a mill. Wood grading is where I use it the most or sorting firewood and barn boards.

If I'm doing a historical project, such as an old barn, mill or ware house, these "turning and lifting scares" are more than appropriate. If I am doing a vintage japanese farm house they are not. The Asians still routinely (especially in Japanese,) warp their timber is paper, just to protect the patina. The Koreans will go as far as gluing the paper to the framing members.

On many modern frames, protecting this patina is also important for the style of frame being produce.

Regards,

jay

Hello,

Picaroons, in this area, are a more varied implement than they are outside the European mainland I guess. Here there are about a hundred different versions, (I just write a hundred for the sake of imagery, not to stake a claim) of all sizes, forms and material. Still, for whatever it is worth, picaroons are not typical for timber framing, but then timber framing is a construct that has different meanings from place to place. For example here it does not exist. There is just not enough call for it as an independent trade and someone doing only timber framing work would no doubt go hungry I'm afraid.

But anyway, a part of timber framing is converting logs to timbers and some people do it with their axes and this would provide an excellent place for the picaroon, (I wish I had had mine the last time I was a hewing). Even in other situations many uses are evident in a timber framing context and a sharp picaroon with the right geometry is handy in moving around timbers of many sizes, even grabbing them from the end grain or inside a mortice if you choose. Still, such marks on even a prominent surface, no matter what the building is, should not be a problem - even the Shintos recognize and celebrate imperfection - with a recognition that there is a division between the honest consequences as a result of the process and a contrived effect.

I opened a box of clay tiles once and there was a series of cat paw imprints where a cat had walked across the wet clay, and felt lucky that I'd gotten that box. Also here, in the cement floor in what used to be the attached stall part at the back of the house, I can trace where a cat walked maybe a hundred years back.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Hello Don,

I'm a bit confused by this statement, I know of a number of timber framers in the Netherlands, and there are young ones jumping up every year, trying to learn the craft. I'm corresponding with a few currently, one is building a green house. Just over the border in Germany or Frances, they are all over the place. Many of the young farmers are also picking up the trade, just to take care of old building and add to them on there small organic farms. I haven't even gotten to the huge industry of historical restoration, which has many working member throughout Europe.

Regards,

jay

Hello Jay,

The simple answer is this, it is not the case that there are no people doing timber framing in the Netherlands, it's just that they would call themselves carpenters the same way people building an office building or standard houses, would call themselves carpenters.

There are in fact many, what to my sense of the matter is, exceptionally talented people restoring windmills, church towers, farm complexes, all that kind of thing here. You see my point was more about labels than activity in reacting to what you said about, so called "picaroons" not being a timber framing tool, both in fact, picaroons and timber framing, are constructs or made up concepts with more or less meaning depending on where, in space and time, you happen to be. A picaroon, here in Holland, does not exist or is at least irrelevant. That is not to say there is not a tool on a stick with a bird-head-looking point for grabbing logs, if you understand what I mean.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Jay: In the US (as I understand it), the vast majority of new builds are stud frame. This means that pretty much all builders count (in a technical sense) as carpenters. In that environment, it's useful to distinguish between someone who nails little timbers together, and someone who cuts traditional joints in large timbers.

In France (and the UK, I can't speak for the Netherlands), most new builds are brick / blockwork. Carpentry (in the large part) is limited to the roof structures (Even first floors are often poured concrete here in France). Even in Normandy where timber structures form the backbone of almost all buildings older than 150 years, very few carpentry firms can afford to specialise in large timber construction. Consequently there is no real "timber framing" industry here. Just varying degrees of carpentry.

The point that Don is making (I believe) is that labelling a tool as being a "timber framing" tool or not is only relevant when "timber framing" is a useful label. The distinction is not so clear here*.

* Many stud frames here in France incorporate some post and beam work in place of internal supporting walls. The post and beam work is not self-supporting, but neither are the stud frame walls. Timber framing or stick framing?

But here is a handy aid in tilting in place of turning

(click for movie)

That said because there are two options for lifting, with the claw from under or the fork mounted at the top, by positioning it at the side of a timber, flipping is possible. Disadvantage is, this thing is heavy.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

If the timber is super large it can be turned by one person with little difficulty. On a finished timber I would try using a nylon strap in place of the chain and hook in a cinch configuration, one eye through the other. And high lift jack.

This was a good size log.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnryqBlOnMs

TIMBEAL, That was awesome!! was that you? Folks laugh at me and my ladder jack, I use it for all kinds of logging and timber framing jobs.

Yes, me and my friend, Jack.

Agreed. Having built and raised a frame using similar tools and methods, I feel quite at home.

Nice Video Tim, as usual. One of six purlins?!

good thread.

After I posted that the other day I had the chance a few days later to use the strap in conjunction with the chain. I did not take enough precaution and ended up with a mar on one corner, ironed it out with a wet rag and squirt bottle, which almost did the trick, but sad to say some fibers were torn not just compressed.

They were 21"x 7.5"x 20', I just couldn't turn them with the cant hook, I resawed down to 6x20

Hi,

I am looking for some help / guidance on making a very simple gin pole / crane that can be used to lift and position logs from the woodland collection stack so that these can be orientated, lined and converted.

Does anyone have any photos / drawings / links that they can share please ?

Ken Hume

Ken, you should start a new thread.

Ken, US Army Field Manual Rigging Techniques, Procedures, and Applications FM 5-125 should be good for initial help. I hope the link works in the UK, if not, go with google.

http://www.petrospec-technologies.com/Herkommer/knots/FM5-125.pdf

Roger you beat me to it ...

Hi Ken,

I agree with Mike you should start a thread if you want to discuss this past this point. I am sure there are a number of us that will help where we can.

Regards,

jay

As requested my enquiry has been moved to Lifting & Moving Logs

Ken Hume