It seems to be working now???

The method I used earlier is the same one I have used in the past, I'm not clear why it didn't work exactly? It is a .jpg file and it is in the same index of my online photos that I always have used for posting pictures here, just did not work last time?

Regards,

jay

Google changes things all the time. They just changed google plus and how it works.

hence the problem, i suspect.

thanks for the pic

Hey yo jay, did I ever send you the drawings for the barns I will build this fall?

As for this design, looks straightforward, simple, not much going on that would cause concern. The ridge is directly posted to the ground, that's good and simplifies the tie joinery -you wan't have outward thrust, actually those principle rafters sticking past will push IN on the walls.

What kind of roof covering will you use? I myself am a fan of common rafters rather than common purlins, but that's just my background. Id use those posts to support big heavy purlins and hang rafter from them. Then the frame would really be the prototypical west Germanic frame.

One aspect I see is how the common purling cant over the end rafters, that is a lot of over hand and either the rafters are substantially cut or the purlins or both. I would look at lodging the purlins on top of the rafters. Saving the structure of the rafter.

The long purlin overhangs are for coverage of the infill strawbales and earthen plaster over that. The long run plan is for this to be effectively a two car garage/ell connecting the house to the "barn". Would common rafters be more appropriate? The roof system will probably be tongue and groove covered in foam, topped with steel.

The purlin system will work well for this application. If using rafters you could extend the ridge and plates to carry the outside rafters, but I would prefer purlins. My point is the purlin to rafter connection, if you lodge the purling on top of the rafters the building will suffer no loss of strength, as show in the depiction.

Here is a video showing lodged purlins on three of the four bents, this building has no major over hang at the gable ends. By-pass purlins on bent three, bent one has tusk tenons. These have daps to hold the purling others I have done have no daps and are a great time saver.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLD8-CEmTLE

I see, in lieu of fully seating the purlins into the rafters, run across the top of them with a shallower half-lap?. My concern was the large overhang levering the center up. I think I understand, but my mastery of the terminology is poor. I'll post a picture shortly, please bear with me.

Tim,
Is this along the lines of what you are suggesting?

Yes. by pass and shallow daps or none at all.

Here's an update/slight retooling. I've incorporated the bypass purlins on TIMBEAL's recommendation, and entirely removed the sills, as eventually I'm hoping to expand to the left and right, and the front will eventually have two overhead doors, so it made little sense to have a sill along only one wall.