Hi TMC,

I am doing this quick, so forgive, and remind if I miss something...

A boring machine with auger bit is the first choice, need is a brace and bit with auger bit, and third is a 40 mm (1 1/2) out canal gouge with a #5 to #9 sweep. You can move a lot of wood with a gouge. Most American Timberwrights don't do much gouge work, but I would be lost without mine as I do almost all my chisel work with gouges. Either sweep or "v's."

Best drill bits and all we use unless antique or custom:

http://www.woodowl.com/

Jim R. is the first place to go for antique/used then after that where he recommends. I use almost exclusively Japanese hand tools for my work, as I work in the Middle Eastern through Asian timber framing modalities and styles. I do like (love) some of the stuff coming out of Latvia for tools:

http://www.johnneeman.com/en/tools/chisels

For power tools it is a big mix up, but the core is makita, and festool.

I love "tulip poplar (magnolia)" and yes it is very much like white pine, just not as knotty and it will check on you if you do not kerf you beams (Asian habit again.)

So I can see from you drawings you are going oblique brace and the European style. I know it well as I apprentice with Old Order Amish, but don't work by choice anymore in that style except when restoring antique frames. I will also assume you are using "edge rule" layout, and not "scribe or line rule." I will leave it up to the others to make suggestions in general, and will speak up if I could add anything they don't. Design should be checked by PE.

Yes you are over thinking this...but that may be part of the fun for you.

Regards,

j

Jay, I think the submit button stuck for a while!
Forgive my ignorance but what is meant to kerf my beams? Sounds important if it minimizes checking. Also, when should this be done? As soon as they are milled from the trees?

Jay, I found an article about kerfing the beams Japanese-style. It sounds like they cut the beams down the least-likely-to-be-seen side (for instance, a cross tie would be cut along the center of the crown-up side) almost to the center of the beam to "localize" the checking along that kerf cut which is supposed to minimize checking on other faces of the beam? Am I understanding that correctly?
Also again is this to be done ASAP after the timbers are cut to dimensions?

I would not cut across a beam at all. Down the middle of the top side is what I have done before.

Being that this is going to be an outside structure, possibly not heated, you may not need to do this.

Jim Rogers

PS. extra posts were deleted.

Thanks to whomever fixed my mistake with the send button...



Traditional there are variances to this methodology. Most do it just after "lining the beam," what some call "center lining." Which actually is the dominate layout method still in the world if you look at timber framing form a global perspective.



No, that isn't necessary, but end sealing is highly recommended.




You got it perfect!!

This modality of frame work employed in Asia concentrates the checking stresses into one location. We have done rudimentary examinations of different species over the years (including yellow poplar) and found that it is anywhere from 100% to no less that 80% effective in stopping unwanted surface checking. At a minimum it makes them much smaller.

We also are pretty obsessive most of the time, except for outbuildings and restoration work, about oiling an waxing our ends and joints to retard the drying process.

Regards,

j

Jay, does this only work on boxed heart? And would a 7-1/4" circ saw create a deep enough cut? I might have to rent or buy a big beamsaw if necesary

Hi TMC,

Any kerf, in this method, is better than none. Box heart beams that are mostly still log, or log flattened on two opposite sides is the most common, yet I have seen it in all fashion of timber, free of heart and otherwise. This is a skill that is learn through mentorship, time, and experience (experiment,) but I will say that I have read and heard more positive of it, than negative, from those that embrace the method.

Regards,

j

This concept of kerfing beams interests me.
We do a similar thing on timbers, cutting profiles along the beams. The grooving and profiling isnt strictly decorative, on interior beams it directs the splits and helps to hide them.

DL,
Do you have any example pictures of beams with profiles?

I can dig some up.