Poplar is next in line after pine for working with hand tools, very similar.

Here is one quick picture, not too great but you can see the profiling on some of the timbers here.

Are those saw cuts? I was thinking of routing some sort of profile or is there any good reason not to do a router bit profile?
Thanks for the example photo.

They are made with a profile plane, or sometimes a sweep gouge. Router profiles would be fine.

If I was doing one timber frame and time was worth more than money I would find a used chain mortiser and buy it, then resell it when the project was done. Other than the initial investment it would probably be cheaper than finding one that could be rented. Aside from that you have already gotten much good advice on boring machines and drill jigs which are also viable options with sharp bits.

Hi DL,

Wonderful photo, and yes I am sure such profiling does relieve some "checking and splitting" pressure, but no where near to the extent of what you would find in the traditional methods of kerfing to the center of a timber. It is usually done (I can't remember which of you asked) from the top of the timber, but I have also seen it done on the outside of timbers in exterior walls.

I agree, in general with Gumphri, if you can get a used chain mortiser, it will hold its value till the job is done, then you can resell it. I would not, however, that I have met a number of Timberwright in my time that where excellent and fast "joiners," as well. Many could, with ease, stay up with most other using chain mortiser, while they just use a "hole hog" and "gouge sets" with there parring chisels, on many types of mortising operations for different joints. Much to be said for developing and maintaining those types of skill sets.

Regards,

j

Jay,
If I were in my teens, 20s, even 30s, I would try to learn the craft from the best to have a career in timber framing but I can't afford to switch professions at 53

I can see that...I guess, to a point, but we are the ones to place limitations on ourselves. You and I are the same age, and I am always tell my peers, "you can be as young as you want, and do much more than you think..."

I have seen (and helped) many start over with this craft, the oldest being 87, who now has 4 frames under his belt. I have complete faith that you will do grand, even with physical limitations (I have broken my neck twice and my back twice, plus arthritis...so I can relate to how you feel in the morning!!)

It's our minds that get in the way, more than our bodies. Plus it helps just to be able to do this with others of like mind...chat about what you are thinking of doing and see what others say.

Regards,

j

Jay,

You are of course correct, such profiling will not do as much to relieve stress as kerfing might. But, it has the advantage of being attractive, adding a decorative element, a certain architectural embellishment that reflects the tremendous skill of the carpenters who built these things.
The profiling is more prominent on door and window posts where splitting would be a major issue -distortion of these members would mean the doors and windows attached won't operate properly. The result is both atactive and effective at preventing cracks and twists.

As for the mortising approach,
I have never used a chain mortiser, probably never will. I'd have to fall in line with Tim, and suspect his solution might be best for you. Why, I might even buy it off you when you're done!

Hi DL,

Agree, not as much as kerfing, but your forbears had been wise also in that you can take a even lower grade of timber, and through embellishment render beauty, relieve surface tension in the timber, and obscure certain blemish of the timber, thereby rendering much more than it would have been. They worked timber into beautiful embellishment to a degree that I have not seen outside of Africa or Southeast Asia, other than perhaps the Norse and some of there timber buildings with great carving.