NH. I remember hearing yours before. I find it works quite well. It does take quite a bit of time. I often brainstorm if there weren't a quicker way and less permanent. A setup system with 2X lumber and screws,that I could disassemble and carry to my next log to be hewn. tb

The banana will naturally want to roll belly down, don't fight it.

D L Bahler- I have used almost this exact method you described. It also works very well, but also requires a good amount of time and it not that portable. I think a lot of us may have access to heavy equipment to move the log to be hewn to the hew station. I always think to use the cutoffs of the tree that I felled. Arrange them in (2) 8 foot long logs spaced out at to a good 3/4 of the log to be hewn. Cut quick notches with an axe to get them to stick into each other a bit. Smash them down as hard as I can, wedging gaps. Level them to each other, until tolerable. Somehow get that this giant log, to be hewn, up a foot, onto the setup. Get the log to sit decently where you can center the log. Wedge it good with with some hew chips or shim stock. At this point I abandon the romance of log dogs. I find they don't hold tight enough. I just use planks and screw the whole assembly together, including screwing the setup logs to each other. Find the center line in log and mark timber dimensions off tis center line. Here I like to axe off a shallow line where the line will be snapped. This way I get a crisper and straighter line snapped with the wood exposed. The whole assembly goes up much quicker than other methods stated, but still, its a time killer, when I know I have many hours or axeing and squaring this log ahead of me. I always am wondering how to make it faster, yet still stay true. I like to hew timber using plumb bob as well. This means that my log needs to stay in that plane. Hewing using a plumb bob as reference means I may also use level as a reference.I really prefer straight, square timber. Nonetheless,I can't be alone, in that I am tired of checking and resetting when I could be axeing. tb

Will B -Most definitely something should be said for how to roll a log up onto its supports. Beyond heavy machinery, which makes this step insignificant, how does one man get a large log up a foot? . I have never used what you are describing as hewing trestles. Does it require two men for large logs? Two planks,and two men with long digging bars works decently with lighter logs. Maybe a portable short frame with block and tackle to lift the log at least a foot. Do one end at a time? I have used that Logrite Junior to lift and carry logs and timber, but again, it is difficult on longer, heavier logs. tb

TB,

I don't use heavy equipment to set my stands up or place my logs on them.

You can accomplish a great deal with ropes and levers, if you know how to use them.

TO get logs up onto a stand, take a cant hook and get it to where you have a space under to log -maybe roll it up onto some blocks. Wrap a strong rope or strap around the log so that the end loops up over the top facingi n the direction you want to move the log. Wrap this rope around the log as many times as you can.

place long ramps up to your stands -just boards or planks will do fine.

Now simply pull on the rope. You will be amazed at how easy it is to move a heavy log this way. You may want to have a helper who can go behind and block up the log so it can't roll back down the log. But I've done this many times by myself. You have a mechanical advantage equal to the circumference of the log -which is a big one. I can get a log 3 feet off the ground this way with no heavy equipment. It's good to have a helper though who can lever the log to adjust the direction it is travelling.

There is a reason why so little is said about the setup. This is because everyone has their own way, and pretty much any way you do it is going to work. Don't fret the details, it's not really worth it.

That said, I like BIG supports under my logs. They don't move around as much if they have a massive surface under them to absorb the shock.

Biggest thing is when you chop the log, don't beat it. Let the axe do the work, don't swing hard. If you do this, the logs won't shift around that much. You will learn to pay attention to things like the angle of your axe, etc. Once you get these things down, securing the log really is trivial.

As I said before, I don't use log dogs or anything like that. I don't like them, they are annoying. I used to, but found out how unnecessary they are with the tools and methods I use.

I can't recommend this, though, if you hey in the normal American style. Not that it won't work, but that I don't know if it will.

Here are some pictures of the setup I used on a recent project. I'll be using this same system again soon, since I will be working on another building on the same site. An advantage of this is that it can also be used as a work surface for things like cutting joinery, etc.

hello everyone tonight

finally discussing things that is in line with this forum, it is just my opinion but business should be on its own separate heading

its been a while since we have had a real good discussion that deals with hewing timber using the old tools

my dad always said that there were many ways to do the same thing, and that for sure goes for hewing timber

it is extremely interesting to hear and discuss the various methods used, that is what everyone wants to know about, and from what I can see it all boils down to a personal preference, finishes--(ie no holes), working alone or with extra help, and I must say the building's requirements

by this I mean a large building will need a fair number of large, long timbers, timbers longer than 20 feet and up to 45 feet or longer.

a large building will need a complete set of mud sills-2 side, and 2 end timbers probably 12" square plus at least 2 central cross ties--you are looking at a fair amount of hewing just to lay out the foundation for the building

having said that, and with the responsibility resting on your shoulders, you need to pick a set up to accommodate and hold the massive timbers you will be working with, one that will require the least amount of effort to control these logs and do it safely

what ever type of set up you finally decide on remember this, as you hew the first side say on a 36 foot pine, you will be removing a lot of weight, that controls the log's stability, it will want to roll to the heavy side--big time--, the same thing happens on the log frame of a muley saw mill, as you slowly remove material from one side--I am going to tell you that a few screws will not be sufficient, you will need good stout log dogs well driven in to stabilize things until the need arises to roll the timber 1/4 turn, and make no mistake it will roll the flat side upwards quite suddenly!!

AS far as holes in the timber is concerned only on the final side will this be a problem, and that can be hidden quite easily if the timber is oriented correctly in the structure

so as we work our way towards the beginning of hewing you can see
some decisions need to be made and maybe a lighter smaller setup might suffice one's need--it is not just as cut and dried as one might be led to believe

enjoy

NH

I get most of what has been discussed however when hewing a cruck blade - these will not roll in the same way as a straight log and hence another method is needed to raise the log. I have noted in our woodland that we have a long rectangular shallow pit close by to our saw pit. This pit is only about 2 foot deep and I wonder if this was used by the hewer to roll the log over on bearers and then to stand in the pit / trench rather than raise the log. This method however does have the downside that the log needs to be moved to the hewing pit and without heavy lifting gear that could be quite a task and also embed stones and cover the log with mud which not good for sawing or hewing.



Cruck blades would appear to be converted by a combination of hewing and sawing.

Ken Hume

That is for sure Ken, crooks don't roll well. I happen to have machinery to handle logs.

Here is a face you probably don't usually see sawn. turn your volume down a little.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6NBYTBFDgM

Hi Tim,

I love it !

What is your saw model ?

Regards

Ken Hume