I am curious how others go about setting up a log on solid support and laying out lines to be hewn. There is a good amount of information on the hewing process itself but very little on the first steps of hewing : providing a solid base off the ground and then sighting and line preparation. I find it personally, necessary to get the supports really stable. Otherwise you cant reference the log on the lines or you have to keep resituating the log until is back to level. If I get the log to stay true to level and plumb lines the hewing becomes much easier. Am I the only that has trouble with log moving around too much on its supports?

Normally the log is held in place on top of it's supports with some large iron "log dogs" that look like a giant staple. You pound one end into the log and the other end into the support log that has a "v" cut in it where the "subject" log is laying.

If you do a "YouTube" video search you'll see lots and lots of videos on "hewing" a log.

Jim Rogers

Look up "hewing trestles" that allow you to roll the log up into a notch, then secure with dogs as Jim suggests.

hello everyone tonight

Well --had to jump in here with my 2 cents worth--

Did a lot of hewing in my day, and here is my take on set up, and I must say many times tried and proven

Many will argue with my take but that is their prerogative

I used hardwood 6 by 6's about 8 feet long for bed pieces , the extra length was used to roll the finished timber on, their weight helping to keep everything stabilized as work progressed

Next I usually picked out an area fairly free of stones say 6" of good top soil, and level as possible

Next I placed the first 6 by 6 in position by bedding it in the soil approx. 3", and making it perfectly level, or as level as possible

Next 6 by 6 is bedded in about 6' from the first one making it also level and then parallel to the first by sighting over the top of the first bed piece

Moving another 6 feet and using a good long straight edge you bed in the third one so that it is in line with the top surfaces of the other two

One thing that I always did was to use a sledge hammer to tap the top of the bed pieces soundly to ensure that they will stay level and true when subjected to the weight of the log to be hewn and the continuous chopping of the broadaxe--if they stay true then you have a set up ready for a sixteen foot log or maybe up to 20 feet by letting the ends over run the last bed pieces slightly further

Most times in my work I installed a third and forth bed piece while I was at it so that I could accommodate 30 footers when the need arised, without having to back track

My take on set up and lining will come later

NH

My approach depends on just what I'm aiming for. Let me explain...

In the woods, maybe I will fell a tree and want to convert it before removing the log. When I do this, I will make makeshift stands out of branches or other large pieces of wood that are made on site. Usually, I will take some long branches and do something similar to what Richard describes above.

I will often cut notches into whatever support and roll the log into these. I have use log dogs, but prefer not to. I do not like to drive holes into my timbers.

Now I often also have logs delivered to a work site to hew and convert right there. Last time I did this, I selected 4 logs that were no good -bad knots or heart rot- and used them to make stands. I cut notches into 2 of the logs -2 notches in each log- then rolled other logs on top of them, perpendicular to the first. Then I cut notches into these top logs. This whole setup brings the logs I will be hewing up to about waste height. That's where I want them for my style of hewing, but if you use American style you maybe want them lower, so this setup won't work.

That setup makes a very sturdy assembly, where I can have 2 logs worked on at a time. Of all the things I have tried, this is my favorite.

When the logs are rolled into the notches and oriented how I want them with crown, etc, I use either a level or a plumb bob (whatevver I have on hand. I find a plumb bob to be more accurate, but takes a little longer to use) to mark reference lines on both ends of the logs, then I use a square to mark off of this reference line to establish timber profile. After that, it is a simple matter of connecting lines with a chalk line.

In replacement of the iron staples you can also use boards and nails.

I have seen in a book where the but was left attached to the stump,via the hinge, after falling and it was hewn in place. Don't know how accurate or true that is. They were hewing cedar rail road ties. Just by eye no strings or plumb lines.

Hi,

You can check out some hewing pics shown on the OWG Forum where Kyle Dumka is shown hewing larch felled in our woodland using both Gransfors and also much more affordable locally made staple dogs.

I am now thinking about the setup method that we should use to hew out some cruck blades (when the rain stops) and specifically would ask should this be done banana shape down or up ?

Ken Hume

Ken,

I would recommend down. It will be very hard to keep the log stable with the crown up, especially if the crown is as great as on a cruck blade.

Even when hewing straight sticks, I will site the log and orient the crown down for the first 2 faces

Lots of videos on youtube" of "hewing" hardly any on the first steps and quite critical steps of making a solid support for log to be hewn. Getting the log to the hewing "station"(not everybody has heavy equipment), and also sighting and drawing lines on log.

NH. I remember hearing yours before. I find it works quite well. It does take quite a bit of time. I often brainstorm if there weren't a quicker way and less permanent. A setup system with 2X lumber and screws,that I could disassemble and carry to my next log to be hewn. tb

The banana will naturally want to roll belly down, don't fight it.

D L Bahler- I have used almost this exact method you described. It also works very well, but also requires a good amount of time and it not that portable. I think a lot of us may have access to heavy equipment to move the log to be hewn to the hew station. I always think to use the cutoffs of the tree that I felled. Arrange them in (2) 8 foot long logs spaced out at to a good 3/4 of the log to be hewn. Cut quick notches with an axe to get them to stick into each other a bit. Smash them down as hard as I can, wedging gaps. Level them to each other, until tolerable. Somehow get that this giant log, to be hewn, up a foot, onto the setup. Get the log to sit decently where you can center the log. Wedge it good with with some hew chips or shim stock. At this point I abandon the romance of log dogs. I find they don't hold tight enough. I just use planks and screw the whole assembly together, including screwing the setup logs to each other. Find the center line in log and mark timber dimensions off tis center line. Here I like to axe off a shallow line where the line will be snapped. This way I get a crisper and straighter line snapped with the wood exposed. The whole assembly goes up much quicker than other methods stated, but still, its a time killer, when I know I have many hours or axeing and squaring this log ahead of me. I always am wondering how to make it faster, yet still stay true. I like to hew timber using plumb bob as well. This means that my log needs to stay in that plane. Hewing using a plumb bob as reference means I may also use level as a reference.I really prefer straight, square timber. Nonetheless,I can't be alone, in that I am tired of checking and resetting when I could be axeing. tb

Will B -Most definitely something should be said for how to roll a log up onto its supports. Beyond heavy machinery, which makes this step insignificant, how does one man get a large log up a foot? . I have never used what you are describing as hewing trestles. Does it require two men for large logs? Two planks,and two men with long digging bars works decently with lighter logs. Maybe a portable short frame with block and tackle to lift the log at least a foot. Do one end at a time? I have used that Logrite Junior to lift and carry logs and timber, but again, it is difficult on longer, heavier logs. tb

TB,

I don't use heavy equipment to set my stands up or place my logs on them.

You can accomplish a great deal with ropes and levers, if you know how to use them.

TO get logs up onto a stand, take a cant hook and get it to where you have a space under to log -maybe roll it up onto some blocks. Wrap a strong rope or strap around the log so that the end loops up over the top facingi n the direction you want to move the log. Wrap this rope around the log as many times as you can.

place long ramps up to your stands -just boards or planks will do fine.

Now simply pull on the rope. You will be amazed at how easy it is to move a heavy log this way. You may want to have a helper who can go behind and block up the log so it can't roll back down the log. But I've done this many times by myself. You have a mechanical advantage equal to the circumference of the log -which is a big one. I can get a log 3 feet off the ground this way with no heavy equipment. It's good to have a helper though who can lever the log to adjust the direction it is travelling.

There is a reason why so little is said about the setup. This is because everyone has their own way, and pretty much any way you do it is going to work. Don't fret the details, it's not really worth it.

That said, I like BIG supports under my logs. They don't move around as much if they have a massive surface under them to absorb the shock.

Biggest thing is when you chop the log, don't beat it. Let the axe do the work, don't swing hard. If you do this, the logs won't shift around that much. You will learn to pay attention to things like the angle of your axe, etc. Once you get these things down, securing the log really is trivial.

As I said before, I don't use log dogs or anything like that. I don't like them, they are annoying. I used to, but found out how unnecessary they are with the tools and methods I use.

I can't recommend this, though, if you hey in the normal American style. Not that it won't work, but that I don't know if it will.

Here are some pictures of the setup I used on a recent project. I'll be using this same system again soon, since I will be working on another building on the same site. An advantage of this is that it can also be used as a work surface for things like cutting joinery, etc.

hello everyone tonight

finally discussing things that is in line with this forum, it is just my opinion but business should be on its own separate heading

its been a while since we have had a real good discussion that deals with hewing timber using the old tools

my dad always said that there were many ways to do the same thing, and that for sure goes for hewing timber

it is extremely interesting to hear and discuss the various methods used, that is what everyone wants to know about, and from what I can see it all boils down to a personal preference, finishes--(ie no holes), working alone or with extra help, and I must say the building's requirements

by this I mean a large building will need a fair number of large, long timbers, timbers longer than 20 feet and up to 45 feet or longer.

a large building will need a complete set of mud sills-2 side, and 2 end timbers probably 12" square plus at least 2 central cross ties--you are looking at a fair amount of hewing just to lay out the foundation for the building

having said that, and with the responsibility resting on your shoulders, you need to pick a set up to accommodate and hold the massive timbers you will be working with, one that will require the least amount of effort to control these logs and do it safely

what ever type of set up you finally decide on remember this, as you hew the first side say on a 36 foot pine, you will be removing a lot of weight, that controls the log's stability, it will want to roll to the heavy side--big time--, the same thing happens on the log frame of a muley saw mill, as you slowly remove material from one side--I am going to tell you that a few screws will not be sufficient, you will need good stout log dogs well driven in to stabilize things until the need arises to roll the timber 1/4 turn, and make no mistake it will roll the flat side upwards quite suddenly!!

AS far as holes in the timber is concerned only on the final side will this be a problem, and that can be hidden quite easily if the timber is oriented correctly in the structure

so as we work our way towards the beginning of hewing you can see
some decisions need to be made and maybe a lighter smaller setup might suffice one's need--it is not just as cut and dried as one might be led to believe

enjoy

NH

I get most of what has been discussed however when hewing a cruck blade - these will not roll in the same way as a straight log and hence another method is needed to raise the log. I have noted in our woodland that we have a long rectangular shallow pit close by to our saw pit. This pit is only about 2 foot deep and I wonder if this was used by the hewer to roll the log over on bearers and then to stand in the pit / trench rather than raise the log. This method however does have the downside that the log needs to be moved to the hewing pit and without heavy lifting gear that could be quite a task and also embed stones and cover the log with mud which not good for sawing or hewing.



Cruck blades would appear to be converted by a combination of hewing and sawing.

Ken Hume

That is for sure Ken, crooks don't roll well. I happen to have machinery to handle logs.

Here is a face you probably don't usually see sawn. turn your volume down a little.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6NBYTBFDgM

Hi Tim,

I love it !

What is your saw model ?

Regards

Ken Hume

I found a tie beam on a barn recently with a sharp taper at its end, such that the end is quite a bit larger than it is in the middle.

I have been trying to figure this this out, this beam was not hewn -it was cut on a circular sawmill some time around 1900. The saw marks are clearly evident.

I don't see how this is possible...

Stress in the log, it shifted as it was being cut. It happens.

Jim Rogers

So the framers just left it that way? Even the joint housing was fit for this beam, which I find strange, the barn being square rule

hello everyone tonight

Hi ken and others

relating to the cruck hewing, I am really interested in the method needed to accomplish this job

First if possible just how much of a bow will the cruck have at its centre point?

one of the possibilities that I would certainly look at if this job was shoved my way would be to rough chop the curvature by standing on the top of the log (which no doubt already had some bow to start), and work along the sides.

then by slightly elevating the ends (with a long pry) smooth the inside chopped surface out with an adze,( you could put to good use here a gutter adze or cooper's adze if you had one) you could use a template fabricated from a rough 1" board to go by

then by elevating the centre (using the same long pry) somewhat to a comfortable height I would the smooth the outside surface, once again using the adze, working from the centre towards the 2 ends to accommodate the run of the grain of the tree--you might be able to use a hewing axe for this surface

You should be able to begin to see the Cruck's shape developing, at least its unusual curvature

to do the other 2 sides I probably would chop away most of the unwanted wood, by standing beside the Cruck and then using the adze to remove the remainder, by standing on top

from my take on this unusual job not much hewing would be needed, mainly because of it's shape

The Cruck's shape reminds me of the curvature of the ribs in the ship building trade, where adzing was the main form producing tool used

Ken, Breezewood 2000. out of production. He used to do r and d for woodmizer, too. I see some of his work in the Lt 10 and 15

Hi Richard,

Here is the larch log that we will use for the centre cruck frame.



Ken Hume

I think I would do a lot like what I think richard is describing.
I would move the log to the pit -if you can't roll the log itself, you can slide it on rollers. This is the methods I use most of the time for moving big logs, or timbers that are already square and finished.

Hew off the flat sides as you would normally, then shape the inside of the curve with an adze. Perhaps you would be best to shape the outside as the log lays on the ground in this picture.

For something like this, I would probably hew mostly by eye, maybe make a gauge to keep a fairly consistent thickness.

Crucks are large enough you don't need to adze them, inside and outside can be reached via axe. Smaller stock the adz works well.