Hello all,
This will be my 2nd frame on my property in western Massachusetts. The first is a 12x20 "Sobon shed" and now I need to build us a small house to live in. The goal is to replace and replicate a falling down building on the property with a 16x24 timber frame consisting of a 2 story 12x16 facing East and a 12x16 single story addition on the West side. Here's the design:




What I would love to do is figure out a way to build the single story portion of the frame without a center post on the interior bent and I haven't come up with anything that works well enough. I've thought of using a Dutch style frame but interior braces would be problematic. The idea is that there wouldn't be any braces on that interior bent since there are two on the abutting wall of the double story frame. If anyone has any ideas on integrating the two frames more elegantly than I've come up with, I'd love to hear it. Heartwood is going to build the 2 story frame and here is Will Beemer's design:



Hope this makes sense.

Josh

You could perhaps do it by using an enormous tie beam. I don't quite see why it's an issue when that middle interior post would abut the two story interior middle post.

By my eye it looks like your stairs are pretty steep. Code in Mass is 10" min tread, and 8.25" min riser. And you need a 3' landing at the top.

What town are you in? I live in Becket, and design and build timber frames. I teach at Heartwood too, so I'll probably see you during the class.

Yeah, I'm thinking about the tie beam but that cuts into headroom quickly. I'm quickly realizing I already have the best solution using a post. I've just convinced myself that there is a more elegant way to combine the two distinct frames. Ah well... As to the stairs, they're within regs, just barely.

As to the class, I'm still not sure which course I'll be taking since I've already taken a beginner's workshop.

J

Perhaps I am misreading the drawings, but unless the two story posts from Heartwood are too small, I would try to eliminate the back to back posts by running girts from the 3 posts on the gable wall to the two story posts and housing/mortising them to carry the girts. If the capacity of those posts is an issue you could add a jowl to carry the girts. It could be cleverly and tastefully done.

Since the girts and summer are only spanning 12 feet, size wouldn't' be huge. The joists would only span 8'. Since there would not be a continuous tie, if you need tension capacity in the joists (and it looks like you would), connect opposing joists across the summer beam with an appropriately sized simpson strap let into the joists and summer to be flush once installed. Flooring covers it and you have a strong tie wall to wall.

Alternatively, eliminate the central post at the gable wall and the summer beam and just run 16' joists from eave to eave.

I have never liked back to back posts.

I'd love to see photos of the process and finished frame, so don't forget us and good luck!

Gabel