Hi Will...

I have done it on the mill with a Dremel before as well...

As for safer, that is "perhaps," more perception and actuality.

Being several decades into the "Wilderness Risk Managers" committees and "death and accidents in mountaineering groups" there is a running theme among outdoor and adventure professionals called: Perceived Risk vs Actual Risk...

Very often what seems "very risking," like lead rock climbing is comparatively much safer than something like " rappelling." The idea of touching the back of a saw blade may well seem very risky and is not to say that precautions do not have to be taken, as indeed they do. Nevertheless, the risk is actually (relatively speaking) not that much more risky than other methods that would offer only a partially completed task or one not done to full spec.

I do not support anyone taking on a tasks unless they have garnered confidence they can do it safely...Fear/worry is a "mind killer" and would warrant not attempting such a task as we have been discussing. I would further add this is not a "novice task" and would and should only be attempted by someone very accustom to working around large saws, and their operations...Milling in general is very dangerous in many ways comparative to other woodworking tasks...as is much of the Arborist, logging, and related professions...Be safe first...and if you don't feel safe...you're not...

Good luck and let me know if I can be of further service...When I am in the area again this summer, I can stop by and do a few blades just so you have them on hand when/if you chose to try this...

Regards,

j

I agree Jay. I'm comfortable around the mill, especially if behind the blade. Also, when filing my hands would be 10-12" away from the rollers, so the risk seems slight.
Actually, since the mill is in winter storage mode with the blades off, I was more interested in doing it in the shop for convenience now. At any rate, please do stop by Heartwood anytime you're in the area (best to call first).

I will do that (and be sure to call ahead)!! I am trying to get some students into your Cruck class now, so maybe coming with one of them perhaps for a "visit."

This task is super fast "on the mill" and tedious and cumbersome at it very best "off mill." When actually ready to do it (when and/or if) drop me a line and we can revisit everything...

Regards,

j

Suffolk Machine is where I get my bands, they provide a wide selection of bands, and made to any length you need. An option is to fit on a 3/4" new band, as a replacement for the 1-1/4" you run now. I would try that and not round the back of the band, or you could also round the back of the 3/4" band, too. Maybe have more set in the band as well, .090 set.


http://suffolkmachinery.com/

Good point Tim...

I only run 3/4" for this process of cutting curves and have never tried wider blades for it. I have run 1/2" and that may be better, if you can find one...

Do you think "more set" would actually be better?

I have found (sometimes on certain woods) when cutting "free form" on bandmills of all types it is typical to run the narrowest blade width as possible for the machine (and tension set) with "little to no set" in the teeth...This allows the curves and undulations to go in any direction more freely...

Regards,

j

That could be the case. I'm only thinking of giving the band more room to make the curve. I don't know for sure. I wouldn't be surprised to see it make no difference either way. I do know a band with low set is more liable to wave, which jives with what you are seeing.

The narrower band, of course will make a tighter curve.

Tim,
The rollers (blade guides) on my LT10 are wider than a 3/4" blade, I think (I'm not over there now), so when the blade is backed up against the lip on the roller it seems that the teeth (and set) would be hitting the roller, and dulling them
Can you give me the thickness and tooth pattern you get on your 3/4" blade?.
Thanks.

I actually have not run a narrower band on my mill. I do want to try one, though. My guides are stacked R-10 bearings, it normally runs with three stacked, I would remove one for the narrower band. The Lt10 may not be able to do this. I suspect it would take the set out of one side of the band. As for thickness of the band it looks like Timber Wolf has a 3/4" at .032 thickness and 1" band at .035 thick. You would have to spec the length. Looks like they run around $27 for a 13'er.

Great information Tim...

I haven't run an Lt10 (15?) since about 98 or so...I do believe then they had to modify the bearing assembly to do something like what we are discussing here...

I am not fond of the larger "cantilevered heads" on mills, and is part of the reason I have always bought and recommended Hudson products over others...(which isn't an issue with smaller Mizers) It's kind'a like the "Apple vs Intel" stuff in the "computer geek" world however and not really a reflection on the machines themselves...per se.

If someone is just a "user" and needs a general mill that "does a task of milling" and doesn't ask for much other than operating within those parameters the Wood Mizer, is a good machine...It will do the jobs asked of it...(aka Apple.) Just like I know many (not all) graphic designers "LOVE...!!...Apple computers"...PE (and those that work closely with them)...tend to like "Intel" computers and/or building custom "motherboard/graphic card" configurations...

If one is a "tinkering Geek" and always "asking more" of a machine and/or "modifying and updating" their machines to do other tasks...then a "nonproprietary machine" like the "Oscar" line from Hudson is a much better offer price and operating parameter wise... The differences between that orange paint compared to "red," seems rather significant for what one gets between these two mill companies...(ha ha... )

If will can get on a narrow bearing as recommended that "should" (??) do the trick...

The manufacturer of my mill, now no longer in production, did R & D for Woodmizer, the result was the Lt 10 and 15 units. He also made a version to function in the depths of Russia in severe cold temps. I don't recall the details but the hydraulic system was minimal due to the cold temps. It was similar to the mill I use but larger. All my parts can be had without going through a specific manufacturer, standard parts sourced through various companies.

I would like to give one of the canted head mills some time. I can see some advantages. Or a swing circ saw. All and all I am happy with the unit I run. I'm considering an electric servo unit to engage the throttle, the cable system was alway stiff and it finally seized so I'm running a bungee cord on the throttle, for now.