hello everyone tonite

I have been waiting for some suggestions about how to true up this large grinding wheel

there must be some setup that will do the job

I have been thinking about some type of a carbide cutter that would cut and true as the wheel turns

I am sure some of you guys that given this as a project could come up with a solution

Hoping to hear from someone soon

Richard--NH--

Hey Richard,

Sorry, I've been supper busy and missed in your last post a "query."

I don't do really well with just "words" to get an idea about what someone is wanting to do...So if you could post pictures of your stones, that would be great.

What I can share is that I have done what you are trying to do, quite a few times over the decades. Each case is a bit different and in the beginning I did it differently than I do today...

I would "bush" the stones clean and straight geometrically first and then turning when I had to do it all...by hand. Just like cleaning, sharpening or truing grist stones and related milling stones...

Now, its fast and much simpler to do with some basic stone carving tools under power...I take a 4.5 inch grinder with a diamond medium to fine shaping head, and while the larger stone is spinning, I register the grinder off something (?) solid and genitally lay it on the stone that is spinning. The process is done in usually less than a few minutes even seconds depending on how much shaping must take place...

Hope that helped? Let me know here or send me an email...

Coincidentally I was doing some necessary stone trueing yesterday and had my camera handy, then I read this which seems directed at the very same thing. Does this come anywhere near the neighborhood of what you are after?

Great Job...that's a way too, and a good one!!!

hello everyone tonight

Yup!!!!

Thanks immensely for the feed back and the lovely before and after pics

That stone is like the one I Came in possession of a few years ago, unfortunately it had an irregular surface problem

I installed a new arbour and mounted it on a whole new setup that was moveable for storage

My final problem was the irregularity of the surface as it rotated it was this problem that I am now aiming at

I am curious about the black square block that you are using to cut and true the surface, it must be a very hard substance

Could you get back to me on that one point

Before I leave--Jay--thanks for your suggestion also--I believe you are referring to the way a miller dresses a grist stone to remove unevenness a process I am familiar with being associated with an 1860 Grist mill at UCV, and watching the miller working with and truing up the grinding stone's surface

I believe you are suggesting roughly removing some of the surface and then using another process to smooth the surface, maybe you could expand on what you are suggesting

Sorry I can't provide pics at this time but I might be able to send some through my granddaughter, thanks again

Thanks to both of you guys--appreciate--

Richard--NH--

Hi Richard,

I think the "black square block" is nothing more than some type of carborundum stone. Cecile's method is tried and true. He did a great job of it!!!

I've used the method he shared and it's a great one if all you have is the big stone itself spinning and want a less expensive "hand method"of truing the spinning stone. This is the "tradtional method" for truing sharpening stones of this type. I'm not familiar with any other methods other that a "bushing wheel" but that is a tedious method in my experience and view of it.

I find the diamond stone works so fast that truing even a badly out of true stone goes really fast. I've never had one take more than about 35 minutes for the worst of them...most in lest the 10 minutes of work.

Blessings,

j

The process is clear enough for anyone to see, and yes, Jay has cleverly identified the dressing stone for what it is. This method is easy and painless which means it gets done in a timely way and not put off excessively. Sometimes I dress and in the case of a particularly brutal grinding dress again immediately afterwords before another go at it, that's just the way it is though your results may differ depending on the stone in front of you. I will just add that I've worked with only three depth indicators, perimeter and central but prefer going with 5 - maximum allowed - as in the case presented.

hello everyone tonite

thanks again for expanding on the information, one thing that I am still wondering about is how you put in place the depth indicators (5) on the face of the stone, this is a neat feature and a good guide, but I need some direction and the tool used

Also it looks like you run the stone in a water trough of some sort--would this be suitable for all stones or just certain types--I believe mine is a natural stone not certain though

thanks again

your friend always

Richard--NH--

Hi Richard,

The "tool used" (or tools) can very depending on which modality you select. Carborundum Dressing Stone, Diamond Dressing Stone, or a "spinning diamond dressing system" which is the fastest method yet perhaps the most challenging if not experienced with it.

Maybe someone else can speak better to "depth indicators?" I dress the spinning stones "by eye" until all deviation, wobble and variant in the stone is removed. As the "out of true" stone is spinning, the "truing stone" is pressed against it. Some rest it on a registration support (the most common method) while others may hold the "truing stone" free hand. I'm not as concerned with how much depth I remove, as I am with the stone spinning "true" and the surface also being return to smooth and "true."

Hope that made sense?

Regards,

j

The grooves I cut with a steel electrical conduit,(this is very old material, would never pass inspection), 15 mm diameter resting on a board on the rim of the trough, all very non-technical, you understand. I think this pipe form is ideal even though it wears quickly. Since it's a pipe there is always a sharp edge to be found by rotating it where something solid would sooner become rounded over. I begin near one edge of the stone, the pipe only making contact at the high points. When the groove is continuous it means the low spot has been reached and I move on to the next groove at the stone's opposite edge and so on and so on. With this method the surface may or may not come out straight but this doesn't bother me since I am grinding blades free-hand without a fixed guide. The only concern I have, that the grinding surface be flat and even.

I always work the stone with water because in the case of grinding I think it is most effective, in the case of trueing I have no dust coming off.